sticky clutch weirdness
Re: sticky clutch weirdness
Thinking of getting MRC to fit new clutch/flywheel/cylinders, would this be a 100% fix?, any pro's/con's for fitting a single has flywheel?
R8 V10 Spyder
previous toys RS4 B7, 993RSR, 993 Turbo S, 944/68 S/C racercar, 996 C2, 993 C2, 944 S2, 944
previous toys RS4 B7, 993RSR, 993 Turbo S, 944/68 S/C racercar, 996 C2, 993 C2, 944 S2, 944
Re: sticky clutch weirdness
Old thread but what is the verdict on this- release bearing or pressure plate? Clearly it has nothing to do with the hydraulics as it is RPM dependent. My clutch stickiness occurs only when I rev it out with the clutch depressed- not in neutral with clutch engaged. Is the only safe bet to solve this to go with non-OEM style replacement clutch?
Re: sticky clutch weirdness
Trevo,
Just been through this. There doesn’t seem to be any definitive reason for the stickiness. Some change the fluid with a more performance oriented type and get rid of the stickiness, some swap out the slave and bleed and some go for the USP metal slave and upgraded slave line. All of these sometimes work with varying levels of success. What does work all the time is a new clutch.
Mine started getting sticky after giving it a bit of a boot, at 77k miles on the clock. Rather than fvck around, I bit the bullet and had a new LUK clutch kit, DMFW and all the ancillary bits and bobs changed. Not cheap but the clutch works like a champ now. LUK is the original OEM.
When I had a look at the old clutch, it was definitely on the way out but probably had a few 1000 miles left before complete failure.
Oh yeah, while the box is off, it’s definitely worth replacing the cooling thermostat sensor, rear main crank seal and the crank sensor. You can only do them with the gearbox removed.
Just been through this. There doesn’t seem to be any definitive reason for the stickiness. Some change the fluid with a more performance oriented type and get rid of the stickiness, some swap out the slave and bleed and some go for the USP metal slave and upgraded slave line. All of these sometimes work with varying levels of success. What does work all the time is a new clutch.
Mine started getting sticky after giving it a bit of a boot, at 77k miles on the clock. Rather than fvck around, I bit the bullet and had a new LUK clutch kit, DMFW and all the ancillary bits and bobs changed. Not cheap but the clutch works like a champ now. LUK is the original OEM.
When I had a look at the old clutch, it was definitely on the way out but probably had a few 1000 miles left before complete failure.
Oh yeah, while the box is off, it’s definitely worth replacing the cooling thermostat sensor, rear main crank seal and the crank sensor. You can only do them with the gearbox removed.
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