JHM stage 1 supercharger kit

[docurley]

Don't get me wrong things like this don't faze me just looks move involved than I first thought but then I did not take into account the rhd/lhd difference. I've been reading about this kit for some time and I have to take my hat of to you for bringing a kit to the UK and installing it yourself.

I wonder what issue may appear with the stage.

[neilparf]

I think the people who will buy this kit will either go for a professional install...

Or simply ask sar!

My hero sar - looks involved to say the least, but I suspect there's only way in your garage and that's the right way - nice work...

[Rick_RS4]

awesome work, i bet with a bending spring inside hat pipe it would have moved enough to get the pipe on,

well by looking at the pics, might be different in real life

[sar]

Don't get me wrong things like this don't faze me just looks move involved than I first thought but then I did not take into account the rhd/lhd difference. I've been reading about this kit for some time and I have to take my hat of to you for bringing a kit to the UK and installing it yourself.

I wonder what issue may appear with the stage.

i gather you meant to say stage 2?, i have talked with jhm about this and the only issue on going stage 2 as i can we can see are the placement of the coolant tank. jhm place the coolant tank on a l/h/d car in the bulk head area where their slave ecu lives, on a r/h/d uk car this is where our brake servo is (as this area is basically flipped/mirrored between r/h/d to l/h/d) that obviously cant be relocated so the coolant tank for a r/h/d uk car will have to go where our slave ecu is and the lines from the coolant tank to the intercooler and rad will need to be extended. the other items needed for stage 2 - intercooler, rad, pump, smaller pulley and possible h/p fuel pump should fit the same as they do on a l/h/d usa car.

[sar]

I think the people who will buy this kit will either go for a professional install...

Or simply ask sar!

My hero sar - looks involved to say the least, but I suspect there's only way in your garage and that's the right way - nice work...

haha thanks, if anyone thinks of going down this route and has any questions or needs any help just ask

[sar]

awesome work, i bet with a bending spring inside hat pipe it would have moved enough to get the pipe on,

well by looking at the pics, might be different in real life

a bending spring wouldnt have cut it rick, i had to make two different angle changes and shorten it by about 10mm.

[sar]

so happy with the mod on the blue ac line and the red modified ac line that goes to one side of the rad fitting ok i started with the relocation of the ac dryer/filter, this is going behind the passenger front wing. the only snag to that is thats where the front vacuum reservoir lives.

i removed my wing to get the length and route of the ac lines right, for future kits this should be all doable with the wing on.

jhm say to relocate the front reservoir to down behind the front o/s aux rad. i have decided not bother refitting the front reservoir as i dont believe my car needs it.
the rs4 has two vacuum reservoirs one like in the pic and one in the boot/inner quarter panel void, these are used to store the vacuum needed to actuate the flaps in the manifold (mine are gone), airbox flap (mine is gone), exhaust flaps (dont have any), secondary air injection (gone). the vacuum system is also linked in to the brake servo, brake system vacuum pump and the suction jet pump. so i think for my vacuum needs the one vacuum reservoir in the boot should be sufficient. im not sure whether the brake servo will ever take vacuum from the remaining reservoir as its feed from the suction jet pump and the electric brake system vacuum pump but they are connected somewhere so i left it in.

vacuum reservoir the green line heads to the back of the car to the rear res, the black thicker line heads into the engine bay to feed the various flap solenoids and also connects to the vac line from under the inlet manifold with the one way valve on.

i bought some 4mm id silicone pipe and a new one way valve and ran a new line from under the manifold, round and behind the wing straight to the green line that heads off to the rear res.

old valve and pipe

front res and vacuum line no longer needed (i hope)

[TonyHayers]

I hope JHM are paying you for this RHD R&D work

This is such an interesting writeup - keep it coming!

[docurley]

I hope they send you the Stage 2 set-up free or atleast at trade.

[neilparf]

This is like a HBO drama - I can't wait for the next episode!

Epic.

[docurley]

Well stop posting, I got all excited

[sar]

back to it!

so with the front vacuum res sorted it was time to rehome the filter/dryer, this is hung from the bracket that would normally hold the front res.

filter/dryer trial hung and pipes and pipes attached

the clips that hold the dryer/filter were slightly to big so i added a bit of rubber to tighten it up a bit.
routing the pipes along the void behind the top of the wing and over the front washer bottle.

the pipes run behind the passenger side headlight, one goes down behind the aux rad and to the a/c pump the other pipe is the long blue one i modified the thread angle on earlier this has to run back to the other side of the car.

i hung the wing back on to check for fitment and all is good, tight but good.
just enough room to get the wheel arch liner back in, looks like i need to raise my suspension up a touch or roll the wing edge as the marks are where the tyre have been rubbing on compression.

pipes tucked away nice

with the the dryer hung it was time to make the last adjust to the long blue line, we new from the outset that this pipe would probably need shortening depending on the final route. jhm recommended running the long line along behind the bumper reinforcement bar back to the other side of the car, so i hung the bumper without the front panel on so we could check the length.

with both ends of the pipe attached and roughly held in position with cable ties you can see the pipe is to long (the sag in the middle).

we undid the pipe at the airbox end pulled the slack through marked it up chopped the end off and it was of to pirtek to get them to crimp on the spare connector jhm sent, big thanks to pirtek at team valley as they crimped it on for free!.

with the ac system sorted it was back to the rest of the install.

[neilparf]

Epic.

Only problem - you can't finish this job - it has to continue perpetually as I'm glued to this thread!

Nice work routing the pipe under the wing - looks tight but neat job...

[sar]

one of the requirements of the stage 1 kit is you have to give up your drivers side fog light, the back side edge of the foglight housing will just come into contact with the pulley on the supercharger. there is talk you might be able to run the foglight with the stage 2 kit as it has the smaller pulley but with the larger stage 1 pulley it has to go.
this doesnt bother me as in 8 years of ownership i have only used them a handful of times, for the time being i will modify the foglight and just have the lense in place and run the resistor in the kit to keep the bulb out warning at bay.
i might look into some sort of led conversion which would allow me to shorten the back side of the housing but thats a job for another day...

with the bumper on you can see how close the supercharger would be to the foglight.

with the bumper back off i removed the bracket that holds the foglight in for more clearance, i also shaved off a couple of centimeters of plastic from the back of the bumper just to be sure.

back on the car to triple check for clearance, all good.

by this time my replacement o rings for the oil separator had turned up so we decided to finish up that section of the install.
somewhere under all those pipes is the oil separator re attached. we managed to nick another o ring trying to put it on, it would of been a lot easier if this was bolted on while the manifold was off but on the third try and third o ring success!.

another job that need doing in that area is you need to take a vacuum feed of the bottom of the intake manifold to the diverter/bypass valve. in the instructions this can be done one of two ways. if you have a later model rs4 (2007-2008) you already have a capped of nipple on the bottom of the manifold just after the throttle body, you just remove the cap and run a pipe from there to the diverter/bypass valve.
if you have an earlier rs4 (2005-2006) they did not come with a spare capped of nipple so you have to "T" into the vacuum line for the fuel evap system.
my car is a 2007 so should have had the spare nipple but because i have mrc's stage 2 manifold (ported out and flaps and shafts removed) the manifold that went back on my car must have been an earlier one (mrc do the stage 2 manifolds on an exchange basis) so i have to pinch my vacuum from the evap circuit.

the fuel evap circuit consists of a vacuum line from the inlet manifold behind the throttle body to the N80 purge valve from there a pipe runs round the back of the engine and through the inner wing to a charcoal filter which is then connected to your petrol tank, the idea being excess fuel vapor is sucked from the tank when the ecu tells the N80 valve to open via the vacuum provided from the intake manifold.
i needed to tap into the section from the manifold to the N80 valve.

here you can see the one way valve and T piece i had to install

so with that done the list of jobs to do were getting smaller, time to get the pulleys and belt on i think.

[sar]

Epic.

Only problem - you can't finish this job - it has to continue perpetually as I'm glued to this thread!

Nice work routing the pipe under the wing - looks tight but neat job...

hahaha there a few more twists and turns yet!