Understanding traction control

[coffey555]

https://youtu.be/ZRPhVxGUCNQ

[irn_bru_ce]

After a lot of work my Avant B7 is now carbon cleaned, and I’ve fixed everything as far as I can tell.
I’m at the point where I’m a little fed up with it cutting the power with a hard pull away or an aggressive gear change.
I’ve read that there is 2 ways to play with the traction control.
I’ve tried it,
Short press flashing and long press constant.
I’ve had a play with it on constant and found that after one power slide the light is flashing again.
Anyone know why?
Also is it almost idiot proof to drive it with it flashing.
I’ve read that this is partially off.
I don’t understand the rules of these 2 modes and it is not written in the manual very well.

I know exactly what you mean, when you boot it in first to at least 6k then take a rapid change to second, for the first fraction of a second the power starts coming in, then it kills the power for a second and then feeds back in. Whereas with TC off , the back just squats a bit and it keeps the power on. Think its when you change faster than the revs are dropping, so you have some of the crankshaft inertia putting extra torque to the wheels and the fronts just squirm a little as the weight shifts to the rear.

I mainly drive with the TC fully off as well , and one time I was driving I noticed it would not go to steady light, just flashing , so tried longer and longer holding the botton down from 5 seconds to about 30 seconds, but for that whole drive it wouldnt engage past the flashing mode. Next day when I fired it up, went straight to solid mode, so not sure what was going on that day

Also as the clutch has 2 switches, if the pedal is fully up and you can make it slip, it also kills the power. Don't think the ECU can detect what gear is engaged, but maybe uses revs and speedo drive to see that something isn't matching, only ever managed that on a very quick change on a steep hill, but the clutch is pretty bomb proof, only managed that once

[SilverS4]

I’ve read through all the comments.
The tires have 4.5mm rear and 5.5mm front. Goodyear eagle F1 assymetric 3’s. I’ve worked out the problem and it was tire pressures. However there’s more to this.
I think that the problem is with letting off the clutch to quick as I change to the next gear. I’m used to driving with no lift shift in an S4 B5, I guess that I’m shifting so quick that the motor is still above 8k and the next gear is matching revs at maybe 5 or 6k. So the car tries to light up the tires.
There is still no answer for the actual traction rules.
Quick press is flashing, no traction, still has electronic braking across an axle to stop 1 wheel spinning up, still has yaw control.
Press and hold, turns off yaw control as well.
I think the car needs a plate style rear LSD but that’s another lump of cash gone and it might make it under steer by pushing the car on.
Mind you. When I’m driving the car within it’s design limits it will drift nicely and correct itself the moment I straighten the steering.
What I was trying to do and to actually get the point across is to learn the car so I can get it sliding in 2nd or 3rd on an open road.
I also know why it behaves like this. If you have the 255:35:19 try lowering the pressure to 36F and 33R.
Start gently in the wet when it’s kinda empty on the roads and build up speed in bends and roundabouts.
I did realise why it was doing it when I looked again at the tire pressure Sticker in the door frame. I had selected the pressure for the tires at the top of the list when mine are the second row down.
But still if you want some fun try it. Don’t go lower as it’s becomes to lose.

[Surrey Sam]

If you want to be a Dorifto Sensei then surely buy a M3? A long press turns the systems off, for full on JDM attack mode.