Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Hi,
What's the best product for dissolving exhaust crap to free the butterfly valves. I've used wd40 and wheel acid which have worked a bit and they have freed off a bit but not quite enough for the actuator to open them. If I manually open them they shut ok but still too stiff to open.
Was thinking oven cleaner?
What's the best product for dissolving exhaust crap to free the butterfly valves. I've used wd40 and wheel acid which have worked a bit and they have freed off a bit but not quite enough for the actuator to open them. If I manually open them they shut ok but still too stiff to open.
Was thinking oven cleaner?
Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Hi, I haven't heard anyone having to go as extreme as oven cleaner!! I'm sure it would work though. Fairy Liquid and a power hose works. Dowsing the flaps in WD40 overnight a few times then working the valves with a rod works too. Don't forget to properly lubricate when all is done with something like a motorcycle chain lubricant.
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Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Mate just get them welded open so it does away with the sport button option it will also help the carbon build up issue too that's what I have on mine with zero issues and if you then weld a straight throu mid section SS pipe in your exhaust the result are amazing in terms of the note you get out the back end!!RS4_Ollie wrote:Hi,
What's the best product for dissolving exhaust crap to free the butterfly valves. I've used wd40 and wheel acid which have worked a bit and they have freed off a bit but not quite enough for the actuator to open them. If I manually open them they shut ok but still too stiff to open.
Was thinking oven cleaner?
FAR FAR better than any Milltek system or racing system believe me!!
Mine is unbelievable!!!
Modified standard exhaust Modified deflapped inlet manifold ported and polished
Head and valve decoke Performance K&N panel filter. Remapped. Lowered slightly (20mm) on KW performance springs Widened on 10mm spacers.
Head and valve decoke Performance K&N panel filter. Remapped. Lowered slightly (20mm) on KW performance springs Widened on 10mm spacers.
Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Freed my valves up with PlusGas - soak overnight and twice as powerful as WD40.
Get them moving with the handle of a hammer or similar. Once free, lube with a silicone based grease - WD40 do an aerosol silicone grease which is great...
Get them moving with the handle of a hammer or similar. Once free, lube with a silicone based grease - WD40 do an aerosol silicone grease which is great...
Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Not sure that's going to help carbon build up fella...WilkinsonRS4 wrote:...it will also help the carbon build up issue too...
Gone but never forgotten:
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
When we got ours both sides were stuck solid. I read many stories on here to help.
In the end, we sprayed aerosol grease on the inside and outsides every day. When hot it melts in to the pivots well and remains there for some protection.
Near side took a few days with wiggling with the handle of a pin hammer too.
Off side took a month! It was free with a hammer handle but just not free enough to be activated every time. I stuck with the grease and wiggle and after a month...Bingo!
Since the we spray a little grease in and out every week (wiping off the surplus of the outside) and for a year its been perfect. Also, no damage was done at all.
I cant help checking them though.....all that effort has imprinted in my brain!!
Paul.
In the end, we sprayed aerosol grease on the inside and outsides every day. When hot it melts in to the pivots well and remains there for some protection.
Near side took a few days with wiggling with the handle of a pin hammer too.
Off side took a month! It was free with a hammer handle but just not free enough to be activated every time. I stuck with the grease and wiggle and after a month...Bingo!
Since the we spray a little grease in and out every week (wiping off the surplus of the outside) and for a year its been perfect. Also, no damage was done at all.
I cant help checking them though.....all that effort has imprinted in my brain!!

Paul.
Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Done some more lubing and working it back and forth today, about 10-15 minutes each side. Its really quite free with the weight of mole grips on the end of the shaft but not free enough for the actuator to open it.
The vacuum does shut it if I open first. I assume there is a spring inside the actuator for opening but its obviously not strong enough to open them as is.
Ill keep on working them. Would rather they worked as intended!

The vacuum does shut it if I open first. I assume there is a spring inside the actuator for opening but its obviously not strong enough to open them as is.
Ill keep on working them. Would rather they worked as intended!

Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Yes there is, of sorts...RS4_Ollie wrote:I assume there is a spring inside the actuator!
Gone but never forgotten:
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Wonder if I can swap the actuators for something like on the milltek they might be stronger.
I know they are welded on and the milltek ones are riveted so would be fairly easy to swap. not sure if they would have stronger spring though.
I know they are welded on and the milltek ones are riveted so would be fairly easy to swap. not sure if they would have stronger spring though.

Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Got it freed off toady, one came free with a bit of degreaser and working it back and forth.
The other I used a small oxy-butane torch I have for silver soldering and brazing to warm the bushes up, with the degreaser it eventually came good
The other I used a small oxy-butane torch I have for silver soldering and brazing to warm the bushes up, with the degreaser it eventually came good

Re: Exhaust butterfly cleaning
Nice one!RS4_Ollie wrote:Got it freed off toady, one came free with a bit of degreaser and working it back and forth.
The other I used a small oxy-butane torch I have for silver soldering and brazing to warm the bushes up, with the degreaser it eventually came good
Gone but never forgotten:
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
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