Prep advice for track day. Stock pads OK?
Prep advice for track day. Stock pads OK?
I have a track day coming up in a little over a week and it is my first in the RS4. I am looking for any essential advice anyone might have to offer to avoid any surprises. I have had a tech inspection which included a brake fluid change (stock Audi fluid) and I have relatively new (stock) brake pads. I am a little concerned about the pads as this track is very hard on brakes. I used to fade the stock brakes in my previous Subaru WRX within a few laps. Has anyone had problems at a track day with the stock pads?
I am about to order a rear antiroll bar (Thanks Sonny) and hopefully get it in before the day. Let me know if I am overlooking anything.
Thanks guys.
I am about to order a rear antiroll bar (Thanks Sonny) and hopefully get it in before the day. Let me know if I am overlooking anything.
Thanks guys.
RE: Prep advice for track day. Stock pads OK?
Stock pads will probably overheat if you do too many laps, allow them to cool down after each few.
DON'T put your handbrake on when you come in after doing some laps. You'll probably lock the rear brakes.
Take it easy and enjoy it...
DON'T put your handbrake on when you come in after doing some laps. You'll probably lock the rear brakes.
Take it easy and enjoy it...
B5 S4 Saloon Widebody Track Car.
B5 RS4 - now sold.
B5 RS4 - now sold.
RE: Prep advice for track day. Stock pads OK?
Stock pads are fine, however like Stumpy has stated, make sure yo do a cool down lap at the end of each session. No handbrake for sure!
If you want to guarantee no fade and excellent braking DS2500's are a superb pad for track. Direct replacement for your set up, albeit with no pad wear sensors.
Check your tyre pressures after your first stint. They will be high, especially in this weather and will need adjusting.
If you want to guarantee no fade and excellent braking DS2500's are a superb pad for track. Direct replacement for your set up, albeit with no pad wear sensors.
Check your tyre pressures after your first stint. They will be high, especially in this weather and will need adjusting.
Dave
RE: Prep advice for track day. Stock pads OK?
What track is it?
Money can't buy you love, but it can buy you a well sorted racecar
RE: Prep advice for track day. Stock pads OK?
You may want to consider an oil change afterwards, dependant on what you are using and temps you get up to.
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Hi Kringle
Great advice above and always leave it in gear without the handbrake on.
Just give yourself 2 words of advice before each session:
You've got to get it home in one piece..
You're not going to crash or stick it in the gravel..
With these in mind just drive within your means at all times - its a heavy car and will understeer a lot especially when tyres get warm.
Just treat everyone out on track as nutters who dont care and you'll not end up with body contact either

Great advice above and always leave it in gear without the handbrake on.
Just give yourself 2 words of advice before each session:
You've got to get it home in one piece..
You're not going to crash or stick it in the gravel..
With these in mind just drive within your means at all times - its a heavy car and will understeer a lot especially when tyres get warm.
Just treat everyone out on track as nutters who dont care and you'll not end up with body contact either

http://www.revolution247.com
2016 RS3
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Sold but never forgotten:
2014 RS4 Sepang Blue
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1995 Subaru Impreza Series McRae
2012 RS3 Sepang Blue
RS4 B7 Avant Daytona
2002 Renault Avantime V6
2006 2-door Impreza STi
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Civic Type-R's Mk1, 2 and 3
Renault Spider, Lotus Exige MK1
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2016 RS3
2018 VW Tiguan
2010 Smart fourtwo
Sold but never forgotten:
2014 RS4 Sepang Blue
2015 VW Golf-R
1995 Subaru Impreza Series McRae
2012 RS3 Sepang Blue
RS4 B7 Avant Daytona
2002 Renault Avantime V6
2006 2-door Impreza STi
2009 TT TDi Quattro
10 Subaru's inc 22B type UK
Renault Clio V6 MK2
Civic Type-R's Mk1, 2 and 3
Renault Spider, Lotus Exige MK1
Renault Clio 197, Renault Clio Williams MK1
205 GTi 1.6 & 1.9 Gutmann
Thanks guys,
The avoidance of handbrake is a good tip and I still have to remind myself about that once in a while .
Dace- I've heard many good things about the DS 2500. Probably my next pad- are they noisy on the street? I had a set of Carbotech XP10/8 (front/rear) that were unbelievable on the track but just way too annoying around town. The squeel was so bad people down the block would turn their heads. Wonder what your experience with the DS 2500 is like?
Sonny - Mission Raceway in Vancouver, BC, Canada. A quick video link http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=ByYJ3GI ... re=related
A little bumpy, lots of concrete walls, but still lots of fun.
And on that note I will do my best to keep the car from getting "scratched". Thanks guys. I appreciate the concern and it is allways warranted. I just watched some video of a crash at Brand's hatch. (Where there is tons of run off room.) I think one of the best reminders that things can sometimes go wrong (even for us) is watching the crashes from entry level race series that use cars just like ours and do manage to have some pretty serious crashes.
Will let you know how it went.
PS. any suggestion re tire pressures?
The avoidance of handbrake is a good tip and I still have to remind myself about that once in a while .
Dace- I've heard many good things about the DS 2500. Probably my next pad- are they noisy on the street? I had a set of Carbotech XP10/8 (front/rear) that were unbelievable on the track but just way too annoying around town. The squeel was so bad people down the block would turn their heads. Wonder what your experience with the DS 2500 is like?
Sonny - Mission Raceway in Vancouver, BC, Canada. A quick video link http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=ByYJ3GI ... re=related
A little bumpy, lots of concrete walls, but still lots of fun.
And on that note I will do my best to keep the car from getting "scratched". Thanks guys. I appreciate the concern and it is allways warranted. I just watched some video of a crash at Brand's hatch. (Where there is tons of run off room.) I think one of the best reminders that things can sometimes go wrong (even for us) is watching the crashes from entry level race series that use cars just like ours and do manage to have some pretty serious crashes.
Will let you know how it went.
PS. any suggestion re tire pressures?
DS2500's are fine around town. They do not come with anti-sqeal shims, however I re-used the ones that come with the oem pagids. Job done.Kringle wrote:Thanks guys,
Dace- I've heard many good things about the DS 2500. Probably my next pad- are they noisy on the street? I had a set of Carbotech XP10/8 (front/rear) that were unbelievable on the track but just way too annoying around town. The squeel was so bad people down the block would turn their heads. Wonder what your experience with the DS 2500 is like?
You will find they are not as responsive when cold, but they do come into their own when warmed up....
Dave
My tips (from track and race)
+1 no hand brake
When you stop, take the car out of gear, wait a minute then push it forward 1/4 turn, then another minute another 1/4 turn. The heat in the pads may warp the disc if you don't move the car
+1 change oil after
Tire pressure ~35 PSI when hot (check them after your first run)
The stock pads have riverts that touch the disc before the wear indicator. If your pads are new I doubt you'll wear them that much. I use Endless Pads in my RS4 and they are HEAPS better than the OEM pads (less dust too)
Here is a tip for after the track. You may find you'll "glaze" up your pads. If you remove them and rub them on concrete you should get that good brake feel back (mine still felt ok, but I've done this on the race car and it made a big difference).
Enjoy.
+1 no hand brake
When you stop, take the car out of gear, wait a minute then push it forward 1/4 turn, then another minute another 1/4 turn. The heat in the pads may warp the disc if you don't move the car
+1 change oil after
Tire pressure ~35 PSI when hot (check them after your first run)
The stock pads have riverts that touch the disc before the wear indicator. If your pads are new I doubt you'll wear them that much. I use Endless Pads in my RS4 and they are HEAPS better than the OEM pads (less dust too)
Here is a tip for after the track. You may find you'll "glaze" up your pads. If you remove them and rub them on concrete you should get that good brake feel back (mine still felt ok, but I've done this on the race car and it made a big difference).
Enjoy.
So I've done my first lapping session, three more to go.
Impressions, fast for sure - a late model corvette couldn't get close enough to pass. The understeer not nearly as bad as people say. Light understeer in the tight corners. Great grip exiting as expected. However it feels a lot softer on the track than it does on the street. A lot. My WRX was definitely tighter but that was after 6 tears of tuning and the ride was not nearly as nice on the street. Overall it aquited itself very well but a new antiroll bar will be on order. I can see why track driven cars go with KW if DRC fails. It would be a tough choice. Pads have held so far but I did get some squeel mid session so I backed off for a lap or two. The cross drilled holes in the rotors are FULL of brake dust! Those are the dustiest pads I 've owned. I a seeing a little greese coming out between the wheel on mounting surface . Where is this from? I'll post a pic later. Tires started at 38psi cold and were 47 after the session. It was a good time. : )
Impressions, fast for sure - a late model corvette couldn't get close enough to pass. The understeer not nearly as bad as people say. Light understeer in the tight corners. Great grip exiting as expected. However it feels a lot softer on the track than it does on the street. A lot. My WRX was definitely tighter but that was after 6 tears of tuning and the ride was not nearly as nice on the street. Overall it aquited itself very well but a new antiroll bar will be on order. I can see why track driven cars go with KW if DRC fails. It would be a tough choice. Pads have held so far but I did get some squeel mid session so I backed off for a lap or two. The cross drilled holes in the rotors are FULL of brake dust! Those are the dustiest pads I 've owned. I a seeing a little greese coming out between the wheel on mounting surface . Where is this from? I'll post a pic later. Tires started at 38psi cold and were 47 after the session. It was a good time. : )
Nice one Kringle, What settings was your KWv3s on?
As 2manytoys, try 35-40psi hot all round next time, its surprising what a difference it makes.
Regarding the break dust, I have had hardly any on my EBC's, however im going to try out some new pads for my next track session (DS2500)
As 2manytoys, try 35-40psi hot all round next time, its surprising what a difference it makes.
Regarding the break dust, I have had hardly any on my EBC's, however im going to try out some new pads for my next track session (DS2500)
Money can't buy you love, but it can buy you a well sorted racecar
Wow 47 PSI, that's waaaaay too hot. Maybe you didn't notice the understeer so much because you were sliding all over the place 
I have DS2500 in the race car, but I'd recommend Endless in the RS4. They are soft on the disc and don't have much dust (in fact the back rims look worse as they are still standard).
Oh, I need video! This thread sucks without video haha
Mal.

I have DS2500 in the race car, but I'd recommend Endless in the RS4. They are soft on the disc and don't have much dust (in fact the back rims look worse as they are still standard).
Oh, I need video! This thread sucks without video haha

Mal.
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