Fuel adatives....
RE: Additive
Caldy, I think the best way to clean the vanes is very hot water and BIO detergent .. Percil .. this will breakdown the gunk .. It is what I use to use to clean model engines .. no damage will result.
I agree with SilverRS4 ... even with a hot engine I can't see how the spray will clean the vanes/valves ... I will email/call Wynn's on Monday and ask for one of their tech to reply ..
I agree with SilverRS4 ... even with a hot engine I can't see how the spray will clean the vanes/valves ... I will email/call Wynn's on Monday and ask for one of their tech to reply ..
RS4 Avant - Sold Aug 2009
RE: Additive
I just picked up some of this while out, both talk about clearing carbon deposits which is something different to what we have been talking about.
At £13 it's got to be worth a shot?!
To answer my earlier question about avoiding spraying the MAF, looks like a cut down mcdonlds straw on the nozzle will do the job.
At £13 it's got to be worth a shot?!
To answer my earlier question about avoiding spraying the MAF, looks like a cut down mcdonlds straw on the nozzle will do the job.
RE: Additive
ahh yes I have used this stuff before, used it a few years ago on my BMW!...bloody good, however be prepared for a hell of a lot of white smoke...got to the pint where ppl was looking out of there windows thinking there was a fire lol..outcome: yes I noticed better throttle response..or was it the placebo effect again?
Money can't buy you love, but it can buy you a well sorted racecar
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Re: RE: Additive
Where did you get it?pippyrips wrote:I just picked up some of this while out
RE: Re: RE: Additive
Welsh auto parts - Probably not much use to you though...!
I phoned up wynns and asked for my local supplier turns out they were only a couple of miles away.
I've offered to pick some up and post for Andy911 if he can't find any so the same applies to you PD, they had plenty on the shelves and couldn't recall selling some previously!
I phoned up wynns and asked for my local supplier turns out they were only a couple of miles away.
I've offered to pick some up and post for Andy911 if he can't find any so the same applies to you PD, they had plenty on the shelves and couldn't recall selling some previously!
- PetrolDave
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Re: Additive
Caldy,caldy wrote:As far as spraying direct into the inlet, it's far easier than you think. Just to the right of the throttle body, on the inlet manifold casting, there is a blanking plug that is simply pushed on to a pipe. This leads directly into the manifold opening and is downstream of the MAF.
Have you got a pick to hand showing the entry point?
Not that its eco friendly, and of course it won't solve the problem of an already gummed up inlet, but why not just disconnect the line downstream of the fine oil separator totally and vent it to ambient rather than back into the inlet?
My guess is the whole crankcase breather/cyclone system is too complicated and that more often than not, because of the limted effectiveness of the cyclones, most of the "dirty" crankcase air is bypassing the system and going straight into the inlet...
It says as much on Page 9 of the Study Guide.
Plausible?
My guess is the whole crankcase breather/cyclone system is too complicated and that more often than not, because of the limted effectiveness of the cyclones, most of the "dirty" crankcase air is bypassing the system and going straight into the inlet...
It says as much on Page 9 of the Study Guide.
Plausible?
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58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
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58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
Good question, i've found lots of similar threads about this problem while searching, Audi/VAG 100% know about this problem:
http://www.golfmk5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73826
http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread ... 027&page=1
Within these others have suggested venting to atmosphere.
This one seems similar to the wynns product:
http://www.ecotekplc.com/PowerBoost.htm
Seamfoaming also comes up a lot:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef3HNvxblxQ
I am i right in thinking this wouldn't help too much as it seems to go in via the injection system? looks fun mind
http://www.golfmk5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73826
http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread ... 027&page=1
Within these others have suggested venting to atmosphere.
This one seems similar to the wynns product:
http://www.ecotekplc.com/PowerBoost.htm
Seamfoaming also comes up a lot:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef3HNvxblxQ
I am i right in thinking this wouldn't help too much as it seems to go in via the injection system? looks fun mind

I'd highly recommend that you contact Terry Dyson at www.dysonanalysis.com and utilize his service to analyze your oil and suggest solutions to this problem. He consulted on my RS4 and has had over 100 oil analysis samples on RS4 engines pass through his lab.
There are several aspects to the valve deposit problem.
1) Oil in this engine is being chemically attacked by massive amounts of fuel dilution. This is causing quick degradation of the oil.
2) When the oil is diluted and has been degraded, it is subject to higher volatization, which is then being sucked into the intake tract.
3) All known Audi-approved oils, whether US or European spec, were never designed for the prolonged chemical attack from fuel. As a result, they crash quickly.
4) Most fuels are not specifically designed for direct injection, and so do not provide the additional upper cylinder lubrication needed by these engines, nor do they counter some of the extreme combustion products and soot produced by this engine.
,
The best plan of attack is to use an oil that was designed to combat fuel dilution and it's effects, while also having superior cleaning properties. At the same time providing additional support for the fuel with mild additives that work in synergy with the oil. For this I would recommend the oil that I had custom formulated for the RS4 engine by Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis, and Bill Garmier of Renewable Lubricants, the RLI Biosynthetic 5W40 HD oil, along with the Renewable lubricants BioPlus fuel additive. This oil is one of the most advanced oils commercial available on the market today.
Strong full-strength products like Techron, Redline, BG44K and Amsoil fuel additives should not be used, as they have extremely strong cleaning compounds that will cause bearing damage to soft metal bearings when the inevitably find their way into the fuel. The additional BioPlus fuel additive is compatible with the Biosyn oil and is "nice" to the bearings. In addition, it will help support good cleaning of the injectors. The injectors are also bombarded and obstructed by valve deposits the happen to break loose.
http://www.renewablelube.com/pdf/Bio-Sy ... %20Oil.pdf
http://www.renewablelube.com/pdf/2I-Bio ... tioner.pdf
http://www.renewablelube.com/order.htm
There are several aspects to the valve deposit problem.
1) Oil in this engine is being chemically attacked by massive amounts of fuel dilution. This is causing quick degradation of the oil.
2) When the oil is diluted and has been degraded, it is subject to higher volatization, which is then being sucked into the intake tract.
3) All known Audi-approved oils, whether US or European spec, were never designed for the prolonged chemical attack from fuel. As a result, they crash quickly.
4) Most fuels are not specifically designed for direct injection, and so do not provide the additional upper cylinder lubrication needed by these engines, nor do they counter some of the extreme combustion products and soot produced by this engine.
,
The best plan of attack is to use an oil that was designed to combat fuel dilution and it's effects, while also having superior cleaning properties. At the same time providing additional support for the fuel with mild additives that work in synergy with the oil. For this I would recommend the oil that I had custom formulated for the RS4 engine by Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis, and Bill Garmier of Renewable Lubricants, the RLI Biosynthetic 5W40 HD oil, along with the Renewable lubricants BioPlus fuel additive. This oil is one of the most advanced oils commercial available on the market today.
Strong full-strength products like Techron, Redline, BG44K and Amsoil fuel additives should not be used, as they have extremely strong cleaning compounds that will cause bearing damage to soft metal bearings when the inevitably find their way into the fuel. The additional BioPlus fuel additive is compatible with the Biosyn oil and is "nice" to the bearings. In addition, it will help support good cleaning of the injectors. The injectors are also bombarded and obstructed by valve deposits the happen to break loose.
http://www.renewablelube.com/pdf/Bio-Sy ... %20Oil.pdf
http://www.renewablelube.com/pdf/2I-Bio ... tioner.pdf
http://www.renewablelube.com/order.htm
exactly, great explanationsilverRS4 wrote:The oil vapor in the intake charge is not unusual. Its present in all internal combustion engines to various degrees. The problem with FSI is that the cleaning ability of fuel additives has little effect in cleaning the valves since the injectors are spraying into the combustion chamber rather than into the inlet port.
the gas (basically a solvent) cleans the valves in a car w/o DI...
has anyone 'Sea-foamed' the RS4 yet?
it's basically inhaled via a vaccum line on a hot engine
allowed to sit for 15 minutes or so
then run hard...
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