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Help please guys,

A couple of days ago my car was down on power and I have no turbos now.

A quick diagnostics at a local garage threw up a few faults,

ABS sensor, Parking sensor, Brake light Switch, Lamda probes,

Will be getting all the above changed this week.

Now there's no smoke so im assuming/hoping turbos are still ok (they were replaced not so long ago by the previous owner), it's literally as if the car is in limp mode. I was thinking the N75(?) would come up on the diagnostics.

Any thoughts?

Also, where can I get a proper diagnostics machine with all the software etc? Will it work on other VW/Audi cars? I think i should invest in one, have a a few cars at home, would come in handy.

Any help, much appreciated.

Cheers
Sid

As I said elsewhere, change the BLS first.

Not sure what post you're referring to mate.

Bls - brake light switch? Can this effect the car?

I changed it myself quite some time ago, this problem has only recently developed.

Ask Mavada how long BLS last

Ask Mavada how long BLS last

They are a pita!
ive found out what my switch beneath the dash is for...it connects power from fuse 13 to the red/yellow wire from the brakeswitch...
the red/yellow wire attracted the attention.
Dont know why it is wired this way, a switch with fuse between switch and fuse 13.
perhaps it is valuable when in a persuit with the police in the dark...so no lights are shown...or abs deactivation for what reason...
dont know how i can remove that switch and connect the red/yellow wire directly to the rearside of the fusebox of fuse 13. is it plugged in with a connector at the rear of the fusebox?
...so my brakelight is working now and passed the mot.

Sorry, of topic...

Does anyone have the aprt numbers for the DV's and N75?

Called TPS and the dude was confused lol!

Would really appreciate it if someone could post up the part numbers.

The car is a 2003 RS6 Avant.

Cheers

Don't forget to get some small jubilee clips for the N75. I just used cable ties for the DVs. Probably doesn't need anything since it's vacuum, but I prefer to be sure.

If your hoses are cracking and brittle you will need to change them all before they cause major headaches. Vacuum leaks cause all sorts of problems and throw up loads of red herring DTCs.

You sir are a ledgend!

Hi all
Noticed this and thought it was relevant to the thread - wondered if it looked any good / genuine ????

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/3314641.htm

Wow, that's brazen of him to sell pirated software so openly.

I do think that the original item is worth the money. It's certainly given me a lot of good service.

they arent the real ones, when you have internet on on your laptop, VCDS searches for updates and it wont work anymore....
he's expensive too, on ebay they go for 20 pounds...

ah, ok .... wondered if it was too good to be true !

Shoppinit wrote:Don't forget to get some small jubilee clips for the N75. I just used cable ties for the DVs. Probably doesn't need anything since it's vacuum, but I prefer to be sure.

That vacuum turns into boost when you're on it, which is necessary to keep the DV's closed. When you let off the throttle it turns back to vacuum while the pressure is still in the intake, allowing them to open. So do put the cable ties on there snugly!

@Rossi46 you can get a cheap cable on ebay that works with VCDS and then spend 99 USD on a lite license. That way its on the level and does nearly everything the full version with expensive cable does for not much more than that criminal on PH.