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Evening,

I've lurked on here for a bit, and found it an excellent source of info, so here's my first attempt at putting something back.

I'm the new owner of a 2000 S6, which had the usual door-microswitch issue ('they all do that, sir...') and decided to have a look at it this evening.
I found a couple of threads on other BBS explaining how to remove the lock and split it on the bench, and set about it.

After much faffing around, I decided I really didn't want to remove half the door-guts unless I absolutely had to.

However, assuming that the problem is JUST with the microswitch - IME, you don't have to remove much at all
This is how I did it on a 2000 S6 avant, so YMMV.

Remove the door card (-2x pozi screws in the upper corners) and then lift it upwards.
Unhook the internal door-handle cable.
If you're lucky, you don't even have to disconnect the wiring for the window-switches; I could turn my door card 90deg anticlockwise and it rested on the ground with no strain on the cables at all.
Undo and remove the two M8 12-point spline-bolts that hold the lock in place. Don't use a Torx bit.

If you look at the bottom of the lock inside the door, you can see a 3/4"-wide spring-clip, with red and blue wires going into it. That's the microswitch.
You can unclip the spring-clip with your fingers, if you've got small hands, and then wiggle it out towards the bottom-left corner of the door.

You can then wiggle the microswitch out (noting the two bumps on the case that line it up in the lock) and then poke it out through the 1"-square hole nearby

With a very small screwdriver, you can then carefully unclip the 4x little clips that hold the microswitch body together, and then clean the inevitable gunge out of it. I just used WD40, as I didn't have any contact-cleaner to hand. Nothing tried to ping itself to bits, but be careful anyway.

You can test it by gently pushing down on the coil-spring inside. If it's working, you'll see the puddle-light in the door-card going on and off.
If it doesn't work, try cleaning the contacts with a tiny bit of wet'n'dry. Mine was fine after I just cleaned all the gunge out.

Then, just clip it back together. The t!t on the microswitch 'cover' goes over the spring.

Make sure that the 2x bumps are seated in the lock, and then refit the spring-clip, pointing it towards the top-right of the door, and just finesse it into place until it clicks.
Don't be tempted to refit the spline-bolts before you've refitted the spring-clip; you need the extra wiggle-room to refit the clip. DAMHIK.

Line the lock up, refit the spline-bolts, and then reassembly is the reverse of the above, in the immortal words of Sir Haynes of Manual.

Hope this is of some use.

Al.

Good job Thanks for that. I'll add it to my useful procedures topic.

fox wrote: Undo and remove the two M8 12-point spline-bolts that hold the lock in place. Don't use a Torx bit.

Why not?

You were lucky, when i had this problem it was the lever that operated the microswitch, the plastic coating on the lever had worn away. I had to buy a whole door lock mech @ £100 and a bitch to fit but Elsawin saved the day

Shoppinit wrote:Good job Thanks for that. I'll add it to my useful procedures topic.

No worries. Hope it's of some use to someone.

Shoppinit wrote:

fox wrote: Undo and remove the two M8 12-point spline-bolts that hold the lock in place. Don't use a Torx bit.

Why not?

Because they aren't Torx bits, they're M8 tri-square 12-point spline bits or somesuch, and Torx (and Allen) bits just munch them, and then you'll have to use Visegrips to get them out, which isn't very pro

Al.

bilko1 wrote:You were lucky, when i had this problem it was the lever that operated the microswitch, the plastic coating on the lever had worn away. I had to buy a whole door lock mech @ £100 and a bitch to fit but Elsawin saved the day

Deep joy.
No, I was very lucky. And very happy.
I *heart* Elsawin. Marvellous bit of kit.

Al.

I need to get round to doing this, thanks for the useful guide

Kicking this back to life. I’ve just followed the guide and removed and cleaned the micro switch. It works when I press it while it’s off the lock and the puddle lights operate. But re fitted it doesn’t work again and the car doesn’t know the door is open. Is there anything else I need to check or is it a fault within the lock itself ?

Sounds like a fault in the lock that means that it's not pressing the microswitch nipple. They lock comes apart relatively easily, so you can always disassemble to see if there's anything you can glue / modify.

Ok. Will take it out tomorrow. After drawing a blank with that I’ve fitted a new door lock on the passenger side. Knowing my luck I will need one for drivers now

Best place for replacement ? Also a job I need to do on mine but am thinking to just replace the whole thing to prevent me from redoing it. I'm lazy like that

I recommend OE locks only - the microswitch failed on the aftermarket ones I tried within a year, although maybe I had a bad batch. The microswitch had moisture in and corroded.

Both of the OE locks I bought came as New Old Stock from eBay. Just be patient and they pop up. Mine were less than half price compared to Audi Parts department.

To replace - passenger front is easy - dismantling the driver's side door looks hard - but actually is also easy enough. Maybe an extra half an hour total effort.

^Very much this.

If the cheapo knock-off lock fails and you can't open the door then you're likely going to have to destroy the door card to get the door open again. Then you will cry real tears.

To be fair, the mechanicals all seemed very good quality on the knock offs. But - your point - yes. Don't chance it for the price of a tank of fuel difference in price.

I got a genuine one for passenger side from TPS. £184.19. Wouldn’t bother with knock off as it’s asking for trouble. Will see what’s failed on the drivers one and report back for group learning