The unofficial RS6 buyers guide.
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:53 pm
Hi
If you are looking to join the "RS6 club" then I hope the information below will make picking the right car easier (and reduce repeated help posts). I don't claim to be an expert and if there is anything I have missed I'm sure the other regular members of the forum will add bits below.
There is only one rule when it comes to RS6 club and that is you don't talk about the cost to your other half (if applicable) because you will be in trouble! These cars are very expensive to run.
Most cars at the time of writing are for sale around £18,000 with some low mileage examples perhaps a little more. If you are struggling to raise the cash to get one then an RS6 is not for you. It will cost at least 30% of the purchase price to run in the first year and a lot more if anything should go wrong. If you have the cash then read on....
Getting the right car is vital, don't let a high mileage put you off because these are perhaps one of the best made cars of their time, but like any car they do have bits go wrong. The only issue you will have with the >100,000mi cars is getting a warranty much beyond that. They are a great safety net but some are not worth the paper they are written on.
A good service history is vital, but beware many bits beyond the regular services are expensive and may have been missed off. The 10k/12mth service is about £250 and the 20k is £400 odd (prices are based on independent garages - more detail below)
Here is a check list of the major bits that you should look out for in no particular order:-
Cam belt
The current thinking is ~4 years or 40,000mi. This will cost around £1200 and make sure the thermostat, water pump, rollers and tensioners have been done at the same time. The labour to change those is the same and you will also know the coolant has been done. (some garages quote a very cheap belt change but then miss out those extras)
Brakes
This is variable but they can last 20,000mi or just a day if you take it to a track! There are two types of disc; the drilled and the non-drilled. The drilled are more expensive so budget £700 for a pair at front and £500 at the back.
Gearbox
Not a lot you can tell unless on a test drive, but they do break and cost the price of a small car when they do. Check the changes are smooth and once warm the lock-up clutch should engage and rarely slip. (it won't lock when cold)
Suspension
You will read a lot about the Dynamic Ride Control (DRC) but one thing is for certain it WILL fail! A growing majority will recommend that this be replaced by an aftermarket coil over. They are more firm than DRC and the three most common are listed below. The DRC springs are black but the coilovers can be identified by the colour of the spring but expect it to be covered in dirt!
KW v3 - (yellow) v.firm, fully adjustable (but not on the car), won't corrode
Bilstein PSS9 - (blue) firm, rebound adjustable, and some corrosion issues in the past
H&R - (red) lowest cost, less firm, not adjustable but may sag when fully laden
Other bits that you need to look out if the car passes the above are:-
Tyres
Again variable depending on how hard you drive the car but as a minimum it will be £150 a corner. Some brands can rub so choose carefully and avoid very soft compounds.
Intercoolers
The seals can leak causing a loss of boost. Although this doesn't sound too bad it can over-work the turbos and cause them to fail and cost ~ £1000 OEM more for higher performance coolers.
MAF, N75, DVs
These three parts are key in getting sound performance. No set guide about when to change them but renewing them every few years will keep the car sharp.
TPMS
Tyre pressure monitors, handy to have but if these are dead look at £350 plus fitting for new ones. Many people just turn the system off.
Modified Cars
You will also find many of vehicles that have been modified in one way or another. As long as this has been done well don't let this put you off. You will probably find that you will do the same in time. I won't go into detail but here are the most common ones:-
ECU remap
Reprogramming the engine will unleash the cars full potential. Expect 10% more power and 25% torque. Lots of companies offer this e.g. MTM, MRC and Custom Code maps are just three. The gearbox may also need reprogramming.
Exhaust & Cats
Can be done in various stages depending on how much you want the car tuned but most would agree the car sounds much, much better!
Suspension
As above with the coil overs but bigger anti-roll bars e.g. Hotchkis transforms the car in the bends. Not essential, but recommended.
RNS-E
The later version of the stereo and sat-nav, modernises the car but quite expensive if you add Bluetooth and digital TV. If you want to get this done look up craigyb on the forum he is very knowledgeable and upgrades lots of units.
There are more upgrades such as brake cooling ducts, larger brakes, aero wipers, filters etc. They are beyond the scope of this guide though.
Pre-purchase Inspections
Get an expert to look at the car first; many of the nationwide inspection companies will not do high performance cars. I would recommend the guys mentioned below.
Servicing
Once you have the car it is important the right people look after the car. My recommended independent specialists are Unit20 and MRC. I personally make the 500mi trip to see Martin aka "Grizz" at Unit 20 for all of the work on the car. Main dealers have a mixed reputation but one of note is Camberley Audi - many satisfied customers on here.
Hopefully after reading this you will have the fundamentals of RS6 ownership and enjoy the car as much as I and other forum members do.
Ross
(Edited to tidy up post after phpBB3 upgrade)
If you are looking to join the "RS6 club" then I hope the information below will make picking the right car easier (and reduce repeated help posts). I don't claim to be an expert and if there is anything I have missed I'm sure the other regular members of the forum will add bits below.
There is only one rule when it comes to RS6 club and that is you don't talk about the cost to your other half (if applicable) because you will be in trouble! These cars are very expensive to run.
Most cars at the time of writing are for sale around £18,000 with some low mileage examples perhaps a little more. If you are struggling to raise the cash to get one then an RS6 is not for you. It will cost at least 30% of the purchase price to run in the first year and a lot more if anything should go wrong. If you have the cash then read on....
Getting the right car is vital, don't let a high mileage put you off because these are perhaps one of the best made cars of their time, but like any car they do have bits go wrong. The only issue you will have with the >100,000mi cars is getting a warranty much beyond that. They are a great safety net but some are not worth the paper they are written on.
A good service history is vital, but beware many bits beyond the regular services are expensive and may have been missed off. The 10k/12mth service is about £250 and the 20k is £400 odd (prices are based on independent garages - more detail below)
Here is a check list of the major bits that you should look out for in no particular order:-
Cam belt
The current thinking is ~4 years or 40,000mi. This will cost around £1200 and make sure the thermostat, water pump, rollers and tensioners have been done at the same time. The labour to change those is the same and you will also know the coolant has been done. (some garages quote a very cheap belt change but then miss out those extras)
Brakes
This is variable but they can last 20,000mi or just a day if you take it to a track! There are two types of disc; the drilled and the non-drilled. The drilled are more expensive so budget £700 for a pair at front and £500 at the back.
Gearbox
Not a lot you can tell unless on a test drive, but they do break and cost the price of a small car when they do. Check the changes are smooth and once warm the lock-up clutch should engage and rarely slip. (it won't lock when cold)
Suspension
You will read a lot about the Dynamic Ride Control (DRC) but one thing is for certain it WILL fail! A growing majority will recommend that this be replaced by an aftermarket coil over. They are more firm than DRC and the three most common are listed below. The DRC springs are black but the coilovers can be identified by the colour of the spring but expect it to be covered in dirt!
KW v3 - (yellow) v.firm, fully adjustable (but not on the car), won't corrode
Bilstein PSS9 - (blue) firm, rebound adjustable, and some corrosion issues in the past
H&R - (red) lowest cost, less firm, not adjustable but may sag when fully laden
Other bits that you need to look out if the car passes the above are:-
Tyres
Again variable depending on how hard you drive the car but as a minimum it will be £150 a corner. Some brands can rub so choose carefully and avoid very soft compounds.
Intercoolers
The seals can leak causing a loss of boost. Although this doesn't sound too bad it can over-work the turbos and cause them to fail and cost ~ £1000 OEM more for higher performance coolers.
MAF, N75, DVs
These three parts are key in getting sound performance. No set guide about when to change them but renewing them every few years will keep the car sharp.
TPMS
Tyre pressure monitors, handy to have but if these are dead look at £350 plus fitting for new ones. Many people just turn the system off.
Modified Cars
You will also find many of vehicles that have been modified in one way or another. As long as this has been done well don't let this put you off. You will probably find that you will do the same in time. I won't go into detail but here are the most common ones:-
ECU remap
Reprogramming the engine will unleash the cars full potential. Expect 10% more power and 25% torque. Lots of companies offer this e.g. MTM, MRC and Custom Code maps are just three. The gearbox may also need reprogramming.
Exhaust & Cats
Can be done in various stages depending on how much you want the car tuned but most would agree the car sounds much, much better!
Suspension
As above with the coil overs but bigger anti-roll bars e.g. Hotchkis transforms the car in the bends. Not essential, but recommended.
RNS-E
The later version of the stereo and sat-nav, modernises the car but quite expensive if you add Bluetooth and digital TV. If you want to get this done look up craigyb on the forum he is very knowledgeable and upgrades lots of units.
There are more upgrades such as brake cooling ducts, larger brakes, aero wipers, filters etc. They are beyond the scope of this guide though.
Pre-purchase Inspections
Get an expert to look at the car first; many of the nationwide inspection companies will not do high performance cars. I would recommend the guys mentioned below.
Servicing
Once you have the car it is important the right people look after the car. My recommended independent specialists are Unit20 and MRC. I personally make the 500mi trip to see Martin aka "Grizz" at Unit 20 for all of the work on the car. Main dealers have a mixed reputation but one of note is Camberley Audi - many satisfied customers on here.
Hopefully after reading this you will have the fundamentals of RS6 ownership and enjoy the car as much as I and other forum members do.
Ross
(Edited to tidy up post after phpBB3 upgrade)
