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I had a knocking from the front and just had all the bushes replaced and also the front engine mount (which I was told needed the front bumber off and the radiator etc out so big job). Seems to have cured it.

How many of you have had the front control arm bushes replaced and is it a normal regular replacement due to wear and tear (they look sustantial).

Also, how many of you have had the engine mounts replaced? I recently also had my hydraulic mount on left side replaced too.

My car has done only 30k miles on smooth roads but lives in Dubai so I guess rubber perishes faster out here.

Interesting to find out as all mine seem to have needed replacing within 2 months of the engine being dropped (that's me being cynical!).

Cheers

I had my o/s mount changed at 84k not because the mount was duff but the sensor was showing a fault on Vagcom, the mount still looked ok though..

Dont need to remove the bumper , I'm sure it's only 2 hour book time to do it ....

They said they could not access the front mount to get to the screws or pull it out. Anyway, they only charged me 2.5hrs labour for it so I am not too bothered - I find it a little odd that they all seem to go within 2 months of having the engine out.

Same here. O/S mount changed at 84k too. Causes reduction in power to preserve the box when its broken, so if you have this fault then you have reduced power too.

After driving the car a few times, it definitely feels tighter at the front, doesn't 'crash' into potholes and rough ground as much, and the minor vibration in the pedal has gone after a cold start! Fringe benefits!

My RS6 has apparently now got 2 fractured engine mounts, also just after gearbox being re-conned.

A reliable mechanic friend thinks the gearbox firm will have tightened the bolts on the alloy mounts without taking the weight of the engine/gearbox thus putting undue stress on the alloy as it has to lift the weight of the engine as it tightens. Plausible and very f***ing annoying.

Any idea how much to fix? and is this what is causing my car to "die off" seconds after the power kicks in?

Yeah, that might be what is retarding the power. If it continues after the repair then it'll be something else.

ecain63 wrote:Same here. O/S mount changed at 84k too. Causes reduction in power to preserve the box when its broken, so if you have this fault then you have reduced power too.

Apparently it doesn't. There was an experiment on AudiSRS - boost logs before and after fixing the mount. It was the same, so the ECU wasn't pulling boost because of the engine mount.

http://audisrs.com/Engine_Mount_replace ... 10580.html

andrewwilson8 wrote: and is this what is causing my car to "die off" seconds after the power kicks in?

No. Sounds more like gearbox issues. Have you got a vagcom?

andrewwilson8 wrote:is this what is causing my car to "die off" seconds after the power kicks in?

Could be the N75 failing. It would be worth checking for fault codes on the engine and gearbox anyway using VCDS if you haven't already.

As shoppinit pointed put, it was me who did the test. I still need to replace it but, put it on Surrey RR after logs and it is spot on.

Just read the test page and i agree in part. It'll boost the same whether the monunt works or not but if its broken, instead of holding boost throughout WOT it'll drop off once the ecu reads torque above a certain level. It does this to protect the engine / box. Same happened to mine when the mount went. Changed the mount and all was well again. Thats why you still get good peak torque readings, but lower BHP as the boost cuts after full torque but before top end BHP (looking at Rolling Road print out).

Shoppinit wrote:

andrewwilson8 wrote: and is this what is causing my car to "die off" seconds after the power kicks in?

No. Sounds more like gearbox issues. Have you got a vagcom?

Gear box is supposedly reconditioned, the company who did the box said it had a boost leak when they tested it, but another friend says both engine mounts are cracked. i'm just wondering if the mounts are causing the supposed "boost leak" due to a safety function as discussed in this thread?

I've tried it with a generic code reader and came up with nothing so will have to try it on a VAGCOM and see what that throws up. thanks guys.

Andrew - same thing happened to me and it is @@@@ing annoying.

There are two hydraulic mounts that have sensors in them and these will throw a fault code if knackered. My engine had a nasty vibration throught the whole car at 3000rpm when the left solenoid mount went _ I did not test power but it was knackered so I did not push it. I think the left solenoid mount is easy but the right is tricky (might be the other way round)

There is also a basic rubber mount at the front of the engine and this has no sensors so can break but no throw any codes. My front of car came off to do it but experts say no need if you are experienced... read Grizz comment above....