http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/te ... index.html
Right, as requested... Not saying this is the best way, just my way
You will need:
1. Large flat blade screw driver
2. 10mm socket with extension
3. 16mm plug socket with plug gripper
4. 180mm at least socket Extension (it's a long way down there)
5. Torque wrench
Steps:
1. Remove front carbon fiber cover in the usual way.
2. Loosen jubilee clips on the intake funnel boots. Completely loosen all 4 clips.
3. Remove the front intake scoops. There are 2 self-tappers that hold each on on the front valence. Remove these screws.
They are a pain to get out because there are coolant pipes that stop you pushing them back and out. YOu can compress the cooland pipes slightly and slide them out laterally. I foundthis to be the easiest way. So you slide the left one left, and the right one right and out.
At the same time, you need to detach the boot / hose from the air box.
Once you've done that you should have this:
4. Remove the nut from the air cleaner box retaining bolt (left side). You'll have to access it from underneath. Easiest to do this with the 10mm socket if your wrench is small enough.
5. Then remove the bolt on the air box fixing bracket (right side):
6. Remove the Allen bolt from the center front of the airbox and don't drop it in the engine bay (like I did).
7. Now prise up the BACK of the air box by gently lifting it with your fingers. You're trying to slide the MAF tubes out of the inlet manifold receptacles. It's quite a tight fit, so try to lift the air box UP without twisting it forwards. It'll come up about 2 inches then you'll feel it pull free of the inlet manifold. DON'T PULL IT ANY FURTHER!!
8. The air box is still connected to the car via the electrical connectors on each MAF. These are right at the back of the airbox (bulkhead side) You need to disconnect them BOTH before completely removing the airbox.
Here is the left-side connector (the one on the right is the same, but slightly hidden by other cables in front of it. If you are the kind of person that gets annoyed easily then gather your reserves of patience for the right side.
(These connectors have a little tab that you need to lift before they release. I use a large flat blade screw driver that I twist, then I pull the connectors off. See below where I disconnect the coil packs for a photo. )
9. Now you can remove the whole airbox and put it to one side. Be careful with it, it would be a shame to scratch the carbon fiber or break a MAF. Don't put it anywhere dirty either because those MAFs are going to go straight back into the manifold and you don't want to drop any gunk in there. In this photo I've highlighted the DVs for those that are interested.
Here is the underside of the airbox showing the MAFs:
10. Use clean cloth (lint-free) or sponge or something to cover the inlet manifold openings to stop anything falling in there. You know that sods law means that if you don't, something will fall in there.
11. Now the coil packs are exposed. Yay! Should all be plain sailing now, right? Yeah, right.
Starting on the left bank, disconnect the electrical connectors on each coil pack. Use a flat blade screwdriver twisted in the slit to release the retaining tab and slide the connector off. Plop. Simple
Now loosen the 2 bolts on each coil pack with your 10mm socket.
12. Just as you were thinking that this is going to be easy from now on, the coil pack proves impossible to remove because of all the bits in front of it. Remove the cylinder and tube from in front of the coil pack and lay it on top (on a bit of rag since this is a crankcase breather and may drip oil onto your engine).
13. Remove the first coil pack. Mine stank, don't know why. Put it to one side. The plug is exposed.
14. Remove the plug in the usual fashion. Mine looked like this:
The tip looks good, but what's all that brown crap on the thread? Also, my plugs were barely more than finger tight. I think Audi forgot to torque them up last time
15. Replace the plug with a new one. Torque it up to 30Nm (thanks, grizz).
Replace the coil pack and tighten it to the head. Plug the connector back in. This one is done.
16. Coil pack 2 is difficult to remove because of the stainless steel pipework in front of it.
It's easy enough to move them by removing the Allen bolts and pushing them out of the way.
17. The others are easy to remove and replace.
18. In true Haynes fashion "refitting is reverse of removal".
Just make sure that the MAFs are bedded properly in their holes.
Take the car out for a run, then test for misfiring with the vagcom if you've got one.
Peasy easy. Any comments welcome.
That's it
