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Hello guys! I have a bit of a problem

The engine does not start. I get a good start rpm and fuel pressure. But the injectors don't fire. No fauldcodes in the ecu.

I checked the fuses and they are all oke. Also measured the voltage on all fuses and noticed 1.6volt and 2.1volt on the ECU fuses number 29 and 32 at the side of the dash
This is only when the ignition is on when cranking the engine it is around 11Volts.

Looked at the engine wiring but cant see why I have 1.6 and 2.1 volts on the fuses when ignition is on but you never know right?

So is there anybody ho can measure the voltage on fuse 29 and 32 when the car is on ignition to see what is normal?

It would really help me. I have a appointment on Monday for the car to go to the detailer

Did some measurements on the car and i looks like the voltage is coming from the ECU Looks like its broken

Have you got 12V at fuse 28?

Yes I have 12v on fuse 28. I can read the ecu oke with the obd

It would still be very useful for me if somebody can measure the voltage on fuse 32 and 29 when the ignition is on.

If you remove fuse 28, 32 and 34 and 81 have you got 12V at all the positive sides of those fuse holders?

/I'd check my car for you, but I don't have access to it at the moment.

//81 is behind the dash panel on the relay carrier.

With the ignition on I have power on fuse 28. When I try to start the engine I have power on 81 32 34 yes. If I remember right I'm not at the car right now.

You have to test with all those fuses pulled out otherwise it's meaningless.

Shoppinit wrote:You have to test with all those fuses pulled out otherwise it's meaningless.

I'm sorry for my late reply I'm a little busy at the moment. But I have checked again with the fuses pulled out and they all get power. No fault codes in the ecu and I have a start rpm.

But the instrument has a fault as you can see in the photo. Also when I look at measure block 22 the engine (ecm) respond has a 0. Could this be the no start issu?

I also asked the guy ho deleted my second lambdas and hy says the 0 is fine and if it was the immobilized the engine would start and shutoff after 2 seconds.

Bud is hy right and is the 0 not a problem?

So I also checked the immo on my 99' Audi A8 and it has a 1 except of a 0! And starts fine.

Someone knows? I also checked the w wire from instruments to ecu and that is fine.

Hmm. It does sound like there's something odd going on.

That fault code is for ECU not adapted. Could it have lost its programming?! Or maybe you get that when it's got no power.

You can't connect to it with the Vagcom, right? It just times out?

No Vagcom connects fine to ECU. Can read all the data and do a output test.

Found this:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... U_Swapping

I did try it and it did not work. But i don't have a oe VCDS lead so maybe i should try it with a original cable. But i don't expect much from it as this is de original ecu from the car.

I must say that i recently had coded out the rear lambdas. Is there a possibility there is something wrong with it?

The RS6 isn't immobiliser II. Maybe that's why.

I'll have a look at the coding procedure.

I guess if the lambdas were coded out incorrectly then it could cause issues. I can't remember which tuner was flashing ECUs which would later hari-Kari because of coding errors.

It might be worth checking all the earth points for the ECU. Maybe disconnect stuff downstream in case a short is pulling the ECU down with it.

Okay thanks!

Do you known what immo is has? I was at the assumption is was a immo 2 yes!

When I had the engine out 2000km ago I did check all the earth point but when I'm at my car I will check them again!

Very strange problem. Car drove fine turned it off and it never started again

Immo 3 IIRC.

Can you connect to all the other modules?

Maybe there's a can hi problem. What codes are stored in the trans and abs controllers?

Shoppinit wrote:Immo 3 IIRC.

What codes are stored in the trans and abs controllers?

thanks mate can't believe I forgot to read the other modules my self

They also have communication errors. Very interesting I have to look further in to this now! Thanks! I will keep you updated!

I wonder what the strict minimum is to get the ECU to talk. Possibly a couple of 12V in, couple of earth points, and CANbus. As a last resort it will enable you to start to eliminate external causes for the ECU being mute.