Ok Guys - I have tried searching but come up with nothing. I now have no choice but to get the seats out and carpet up to try and work out why I can't open the doors on the car ( apart from drivers door with the key). I have managed to get the module up from under the passenger carpet and that is dry with no signs of water having been near it. If I unplug leads and plug them back in - it all works till I lock the car and then back to square one.
I have noticed with the drivers door open and keys in the ignition that the interior lights flash so I have been led to believe there may be an earth problem.
So my question is, has anybody got the seats out in less than the six hours I have heard talk about??
Thanks
Removing front seats
Re: Removing front seats
On the C5, aren't the seats essentially the same (albeit with RS6 logos rather than just Recaro) as the S6?
In which case, the fronts take about 20 minutes a piece, and the backs (if you need to do those too) about 40 minutes altogether - It is a piece of piss!
I am working from memory a bit, and have only done it once, but:
1) raise to highest seat height setting (just makes life easier)
2) undo 2 bolts at front
3) lift front of seat and unplug the 4 or so plugs for airbags, heating, motors etc - Its a bit fiddly, but certainly easy enough
4) slide to back (by hand, motors are unplugged at this point)
5) lift out - realise why C5s are so bloody heavy if that's how much just one front seat weighs!
Repeat for other side
Rears are a bit more of an arse due to awkward bolt placements, but are not very difficult - it isn't easy to describe, but easy enough to work out when you look at them (if you see what I mean)
If they are different and I am talking crap, happy to be corrected, but if it is supposed to take 6 hours I am very surprised
In which case, the fronts take about 20 minutes a piece, and the backs (if you need to do those too) about 40 minutes altogether - It is a piece of piss!
I am working from memory a bit, and have only done it once, but:
1) raise to highest seat height setting (just makes life easier)
2) undo 2 bolts at front
3) lift front of seat and unplug the 4 or so plugs for airbags, heating, motors etc - Its a bit fiddly, but certainly easy enough
4) slide to back (by hand, motors are unplugged at this point)
5) lift out - realise why C5s are so bloody heavy if that's how much just one front seat weighs!
Repeat for other side
Rears are a bit more of an arse due to awkward bolt placements, but are not very difficult - it isn't easy to describe, but easy enough to work out when you look at them (if you see what I mean)
If they are different and I am talking crap, happy to be corrected, but if it is supposed to take 6 hours I am very surprised
Re: Removing front seats
6 hours? Is that an Audi book time which includes removing the engine first 
Avus Avant, RNS-E mk2 with sds and Bluetooth, Milltek, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Forge, ITG, A.C.E, Wagner, FBMFSW, MTM.
Re: Removing front seats
Tut tut tut 6 hrs for an engine drop!..................we all know its 16 so stop fibbing!bilko1 wrote:6 hours? Is that an Audi book time which includes removing the engine first
950 nm torque!
Ohh running bridgestones because they are the best
Ohh running bridgestones because they are the best
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Drummerman
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Re: Removing front seats
Thanks for the info, but I am now thinking that maybe it is not a wiring fault under the carpet. Having googled the problem, I am wondering if it is the micro switch on the driver's door.
when I put the key in and unlock the door, the interior light comes on but the alarm doesn't de-activate. When I open the door the alarm goes off and when I put the key in the ignition, the interior lights and lights on the door flash.
Question is, could this all be down to the micro switch not telling the CCM that the door is open? Also when the door is open it doesn't show up on the DIS.
Would it be worth getting a new mechanism and seeing if this sorts the problem, or should I continue to try and check all the splices in the wiring??
Thanks
when I put the key in and unlock the door, the interior light comes on but the alarm doesn't de-activate. When I open the door the alarm goes off and when I put the key in the ignition, the interior lights and lights on the door flash.
Question is, could this all be down to the micro switch not telling the CCM that the door is open? Also when the door is open it doesn't show up on the DIS.
Would it be worth getting a new mechanism and seeing if this sorts the problem, or should I continue to try and check all the splices in the wiring??
Thanks
Re: Removing front seats
Use the Vagcom to test the individual switches.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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Drummerman
- 2nd Gear
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:35 pm
Re: Removing front seats
It could well be the microswitch from what you are saying about the DIS not showing the door as open.
The opening with the key not disarming the alarm may just be how the car is setup however - I have an early (non-flip key) A3 1.8T that the battery died in the fob, and it took me a week or so to get a replacement.
When you opened it with the key in the meantime, it would open all the central locking, but not disarm the alarm/immobiliser - you then had to push the fob into a slot under the dash to stop the alarm and mobilise the car.
May be totally useless information, but as you are trying to fault find, just bear in mind that particular symptom may not be indicative of anything other than that is what the car was set up to do at the factory
The opening with the key not disarming the alarm may just be how the car is setup however - I have an early (non-flip key) A3 1.8T that the battery died in the fob, and it took me a week or so to get a replacement.
When you opened it with the key in the meantime, it would open all the central locking, but not disarm the alarm/immobiliser - you then had to push the fob into a slot under the dash to stop the alarm and mobilise the car.
May be totally useless information, but as you are trying to fault find, just bear in mind that particular symptom may not be indicative of anything other than that is what the car was set up to do at the factory
Re: Removing front seats
Sounds more like the module is on the fritz.
It's worth checking the earth though. Just double it up with a wire directly to the module from a known good earthing point. It's the brown wire.
Then, if that makes no difference, what I would do is disconnect each of the door locks in turn to see what effect that has.
It's worth checking the earth though. Just double it up with a wire directly to the module from a known good earthing point. It's the brown wire.
Then, if that makes no difference, what I would do is disconnect each of the door locks in turn to see what effect that has.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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