The RS6 project including 5HP24 A transmission rebuild SOLD

[Shoppinit]

Worth stripping the valve body to check? What about renewing the pressure regulator just to be on the safe side?

[RS2]

Maybe.

My knowledge on these gearboxes is not as great as someone like Mark at CT and he has given me pointers as to where to look for damage.

He didn't think that the valve body would have suffered.

When the gearbox is not running, the oil would be above the broken section so it has been getting some oil just not once it was warmed up.

I'll be pulling the valve body off to get access to the next drum in the box anyway to may have a look.

MG

[mavada]

Sorry for hijacking your post, but how to determine play when the right flange is out.
Just by checking the bearings in front and behind the differential?

Came across this in Elsa...:

[RS2]

Lol, it's absolutely correct!

If you just unbolt the outer casing and remove it, the diff will fall out!

Re checking play in bearings or the diff: Once you have removed the output flange and diff (carefully!), bolt the flange back into the diff and inspect to see if there is any play between the flange and the diff. If not, the play must therefore be in the diff bearings and the whole diff is moving.

Obviously inspect the diff bearings also.

Just out of interest, when did you last check or change the diff oil?

MG

[mavada]

uhmm, never since i own it (3 years)...thats one of the things you dont worry about but should Always be checked know we're talking about it...

[RS2]

Not that many normal garages will check the autobox oil level...

Less will check or even know that the centre diff and front diff have a completely separate chamber and completely different type of oil to check!

If the output flange seals have leaked, it's possible that there is not enough oil in there and that the bearings have run dry.

Worth getting underneath and checking.

MG

[mavada]

yeah will check that.
Looking at this pic, the numbers 2, 7 and 11 are the ones to check for play?
If i remove the flange and cover, whats holding the diff into place? just nothing at all?

And wheres nr 5 connected to? to the left flange or the diff itself?

[bam_bam]

MRC have shortened my ATF pick up. I think they did the same to Dave's.

[RS2]

Thanks Bam_bam re pickup length. I'll look further into this.

Re bearings, items 2 and 11 are the taper bearings for the diff. I can't see what 7 is for but it may just be a seal? Do you have the part number list which does with the diagram?

The flange is bolted directly into the centre of the diff.

The diff is held in by the cover itself which is where the diff bearing race resides.

Once you remove the cover, there is nothing to hold the diff in. The best way to remove it is to have the trans on it's side with the cover facing up.

You can't get to this in the car as the left turbo sits over the cover.

MG

[mavada]

[chunky79]

Worth stripping the valve body to check? What about renewing the pressure regulator just to be on the safe side?

IMO the valve body should be stripped and cleaned. Swarf can get everywhere so is well worth cleaning out, and the oil cooler.

[RS2]

The magnets in the sump catch any swarf that's going around and despite the hard life this transmission has had over the last 3 years, there's not a lot on them.

Also, the speed sensors in the trans pick up any swarf for the same reason. Mark asked me to check if there was any there while I was on the phone and they're clean so it isn't a concern to me.

I will clean out the valve body as it's there, easy to do and I have the tools at work to do it.

The oil cooler? If there had been any bearing break down or failure, signs of swarf etc going around through bearings and marking up the journals I would agree although it must be said that once this has happened, it's almost impossible to get that kind of stuff out of an oil cooler and you're better throwing it away and replacing it.

I took my lunch half hour to inspect further today before ordering parts from CT.

Having removed the oil pump and first drum again, I concentrated on the second set.



I removed the circlip and carefully took out each friction disc and metal plate individually inspecting them.



Next was the outer set.





I was concerned at first about the small hot spots on the metal plates that sit inbetween the friction discs and asked Mark about them. When I described where they had come from and how they looked, Mark replied that the plates receive those hot spots in the manufacturing process and to look closely at the surface which should be grooved. Only if the grooves are damaged should the metal plates be replaced. The plates are in good condition so they've gone back in as they came out. The friction discs on both sets show no signs of being worn or burnt.

A quick look inside before it all goes back in.



I've ordered new clutch friction discs for Clutch pack A, new piston seals for the outer drum, new bearings and seals for that drum etc along with a new filter and gasket for the sump. I'm hoping that they'll arrive tomorrow so that I can get on with it over the weekend.

Re sump and filter pick up lengths.

Apparently the RS6 ZF 5HP24A were all supposed to come with a deeper sump than most of the other 5HP24s out there to allow for more oil but not all of them got the deeper sump.

As a result, there are 2 versions of oil filter for this gearbox. Mark is sending me the correct filter for the RS6 gearbox which has a longer pick up tube. I have to do some measuring of the sump to check that I have around 2-3mm below the oil pick up pipe.

I'd imagine that trimming the pipe a little more is a quick mod which is carried out to make sure that no gearbox ever ends up with less than 1mm clearance for the oil to be sucked up.

More to come as and when.

MG

[Shoppinit]

I thought the RS6 needed the short pick up tube.

[hahnmgh63]

A couple of things. At least here in N. America Audi only sells the EGT sensors as a pair, maybe you can still get them separate over there, we used to be able to but not anymore. I would also replace the Front O2 sensors while your in there as they're a pain to get at with it back in the car, you can get at the rear ones anytime. Many of the OEM & aftermarket ATF filters for the 5HP24 have too deep of a pickup and need to be trimmed. Check your pan depth and the filter length depth when bolted to the tranny. When running the pan is still full all the way up to the Periscope filler hole at 35'~40'C and even fuller at higher temps, that is a fact and anyone who tells you it is 10mm when running is full of it. The filling process has you fill it with engine off to the top of the periscope filler hole, start the engine and keep filling until it is full and temp is approx 35'C (plug it at 35'C, don't wait until 40'C). If you don't get it full by those temps you need to plug it, shut it down and come back a few hours while it cools, start it, un-plug the filler hole an fill again to catch it full by 35'C. I can send you the ZF manual if you want, the filling process is also in the Audi manual, it is pretty common process to all ZF auto gearboxes.

[Shoppinit]

This:

When running the pan is still full all the way up to the Periscope filler hole at 35'~40'C and even fuller at higher temps, that is a fact and anyone who tells you it is 10mm when running is full of it.

The man speaks the truth.