Cam Belt Plus Chain ?

[Gregstv]

Hi Guys,
Looks like I am going to have to change the cam phaser on bank 2. Cant see any way of doing it without removing the timing belt. Hoping I can just mark the belt and release the tensioner to remove the belt. Remove the cams and phaser and replace the phaser with one from the spare motor.
The car has only don 100k,s since I replaced the belt and tensioners a couple of months ago. Should of checked the phasers were advancing correctly before I pulled it apart. Lesson learnt.
Problem with the phaser on bank 2 is I am only getting 15deg instead of 22 when the phaser is activated. Bank one is fine and getting 21 - 22.

[Shoppinit]

100k in a couple of months? Sounds like a lot. Did you mean 10k? Assuming you did.

The timing won’t be right unless you do the whole releasing the can pulleys and tensioning procedure as per the DIY.

I mean you could do it your way and test the timing before and after to see if you got lucky, in the knowledge that you might have to do it properly.

[Mɐʇʇ]

When doing the mazda cambelt a couple of months back I was pondering exactly this. On the Mazda & the MG's K-series, I wind it into position, put the pins (sometimes I even have to cut and grind a good drill. lol) or camlock tool on, pull all the gubbins off, replace it, set the tension & job jobbed.

Why does the audi V8 require re-timing the cam every time?

Anyway, for Greg's issue - sorry, I don't think so.
Both cams on the bank have to come out,
To get the cams out there's a bunch of tin that has to come out too

Make sure you order new cam cap bolts - easy to miss. You can sometimes get away with 1 reuse of them, but they are a small torque to yield bolt, so I wouldn't push my luck if possible. Or if you do have to push your luck, wind them up to the torque setting (pre-yield) and then then extra turn they need - do it with a digital or old school (bendy lever) torque wrench. ANY lowering of the torque load, stop immediately because you're into to "oh <beep>" territory if you continue. That said, they are nothing particularly special - when they inevitably go NLA, I think with some thought WRT to spec & washer setup, a commodity bolt could be used.

[Gregstv]

Should of written 100 kilometres.aprox 60 miles, so stuff all.
I have new cam cap bolts so all good there. I might have to do the whole thing again. If I don't the tin will come out with the cams. Not sure if that will work.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Yeah, there's no harm in having a go, is there.

[IchBautAuto]

..............................................
Problem with the phaser on bank 2 is I am only getting 15deg instead of 22 when the phaser is activated. Bank one is fine and getting 21 - 22.

Shooting from the hip here, you may have mentioned this before. I remember some info on just changing the electrics on the phaser but can't be sure if it was a "how to" or just a discussion. Worth doing if possible ahead of a bigger job. Only those with spares would really have the opportunity to try.

[Gregstv]

Swapped the solenoid and the cam sensor. No change.
I was hoping.

[Mɐʇʇ]

In my case, the trigger for replacement was that when I did the cam chains & adjuster shoes, I could see that the inlet gauze on the adjuster was missing.

When I disassembled it I could see that the filter gauze on the inlet to the unit had been ingested and I found some fragments of it in the hydraulic cylinder of the adjuster. It appeared to actuate OK - but I could certainly have seen it blocking or restricting the operation of the unit. I couldn't see any evidence of further damage to the unit - but I didn't feel lucky, hence replaced it.

[Shoppinit]

After the above convo I went out and fired my car up today for the first time in maybe 3 months. Started on the button, as you'd expect with it being kept on the trickle charger. Shame the roads are still salty and wet, it deserves a drive.

Started up nicely. As expected, took a while for one of the tappets to quieten down completely. Gearbox went into limp, mostly as a protest I suspect. Restarted and all good. Now it needs a thorough clean. Absolutely filthy.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Is it back home now?

[Shoppinit]

Yup. It's in its new home, nice and dry. Other than when I get it out for a good clean this week, there it will stay until summer.

[Gregstv]

Started looking into why bank 2 cam is only advancing to 14-15 degrees. Removed the rocker cover first to see if I could see anything. Broken cam pad on the top. When I did the cam belt I used the tool to compress the phaser to check pad wear. I think I must of over tightened the tool and cracked the pad. Both ends were just sitting where they dropped and the center part of the pad was off center but still under the chain. So no metal on metal. Very lucky I would say. Lined up the cams with the notches and compressed the phaser. The broken center bit fell out. Slid a new pad in and clipped it down. Reassembled and all is good. Group 93 has changed a bit but still in spec. I will keep an eye on things and keep checking group 91, 92 and 93 for a while. For now I think its ok. Next round will be all new pads

[Shoppinit]

Wow. Lucky indeed. Could have been catastrophic.

[Gregstv]

Yes, super lucky.

[Mark-RS]

Finally got around to getting my first quote from my local Indy Audi garage...

£2200 !

That's for Cambelt, Aux belts, Waterpump etc.... A service where I supply the plugs and oil. Diff oil and Transfer box oil. Oil supplied by them.

They said the book price for the Cambelt was 11 hours and that's what they will go by. 2 Hours for the plugs and oil change

Seems kinda pricey me thinks ?