The RS6 project including 5HP24 A transmission rebuild SOLD

[RS2]

Nice to see a big project after a while, good luck
Im planning to do the cambelt etc myself in the near future...

I had a quick peak at the cam belt while I was pulling the engine out and the water pump has been weeping so I'll be doing that at the same time along with a full cam belt change

Also, one of the cam tensioners is noisy so I may be changing both too

MG

[RS2]

i've had the engine/gearbox out as well couple of months ago for, of course, the exact same reason , while at it i've also changed the below items, in order to avoid other future labor costs:

O2 sensors, EGT sensors, Temperature sensor, Valve cover gaskets plus all other gaskets which can't be changed without removing the engine, turbo gaskets, intercooler hoses, exhaust/intake gaskets, all 3 engine mounts and many other bits that looked like they've had enough...

If you have no records of the O2 and EGT sensors have had been changed, get them replaced as it's a PITA to change it with the engine on!

It's good that you can do it yourself, you can take it slowly and make sure you get everything done they way you want it!

Good luck!!!

I agree, they're not much fun to change in situ. I'll have to see what my wallet will stretch to. Having just bought it, I'm a little stretched atm

MG

[Shoppinit]

There's no EGR on the RS6. Did you mean secondary air injection?

[RS2]

There's no EGR on the RS6. Did you mean secondary air injection?

Yes sorry I'm getting mixed up with TDi stuff.

I've been reading up since yesterday and apparently when the exhaust valves seize, the air pump slowly fills with water

I'm tempted to remove the system apart from always having fault codes without it

MG

[Shoppinit]

17985 - Right Engine mount - open circuit

Nuts. Mine has just starting doing this, too. Not a big deal to sort, especially since your engine is already out.

17831 - Secondary Air Injection System Bank 1, Insufficient flow

17819 - Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2, Insufficient flow

If this is the pump that's full of water then it's probabyl the cause of this. These faults are frequently seen when there's a vacuum leak in the system. No doubt you'll be wanting to replace all the vacuum pipes anyway.

17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2, open or short to Plus - Intermittent

The exhaust gas temp sensor 2 hasn't shown up since but I'm in the right area to change it. I do know that it's possible to change these with the engine in too though. Oh... which side is Gas Temp Sensor 2?

Passenger side. But change them both since the engine's out and probably the other sensor will fail soon after that one. Might as well put some new lambda sensors in, too. Much easier to do with the engine out and they have a fairly limited life expectancy anyway.

Next... the exhaust gas re-circulation pump is full of water! Yes you heard it right... Water. I can't work out how or why. I'd imagine that this is the reason for the above faults! Has anyone ever heard of this before?

Again, I'm thinking you mean the SAI. Can't imagine how it got full of water. Unless it sucked it in. Maybe someone powerwashed the engine with it running.

The transmission was fitted at an Audi dealership. Whoever fitted it didn't do a great job as they've snapped a gearbox mount bolt and left one of the trans to engine M12 bolts loose... as in finger tight!

I'd imagine it'll be the same person who has stripped a couple of bolts here and there too.

That's all for the moment but I'll be pulling the trans apart next week and I'll take photos as I go.

Good stuff. Will be watching with interest.

[Shoppinit]

I'm tempted to remove the system apart from always having fault codes without it

Yeah, it's a useless appendage anyway. You can always get the SAI coded out. Just use proper blanking plates.

[chunky79]

Lol, sorry Footlong, that won't be going up on the forum

Right now I don't want to sell the car but things change and that kind of information can jeopardise a future sale. For that reason alone, that won't get published. To give you some idea, it was more that the general consensus on the forum and less than the trader wanted.

Re Cats, I need the car to pass an MOT easily each year and this is worth more than an extra 20 horsepower

Location? There aren't too many businesses that have both Porsches and Monaros in the same place. I run a business under the same roof, also helping out with diagnostics and modifications from time to time.

MG

Don't think you will have any issues passing the mot with just gutted downpipes.

Think I have just seen a VXR8 thats had a charger fitted by Monkfish.

[the6]

Great post RS2, do keep this updated as you go on, very informative having an owners eye view especially as this is hands on. Brilliant!

[rossi46]

Great thread RS2 and welcome along. Looking forward to seeing updates as/when

Cheers

[RS2]

Ok so I managed to get a bit of time today to get at the transmission.

I don't have the factory stand to hold the trans so it's sitting on the propshaft output flange and strapped to the workbench to keep it safe.



Removing the sump revealed the first surprise.





The cracked filter will not have helped things but I'm still working out if it would actually cause lack of oil pressure or not. I would expect that the normal oil level would be above the cracked section so although the oil wouldn't be filtered, it should technically have supplied oil to the gearbox.

There is plenty of bronze coloured crap in the sump.



When draining the oil, the oil stunk to high heaven of burnt clutch discs. Really nasty.

Removing the torque converter (just lifts out) reveals the oil pump and bolts that hold it in place.

At the bottom, you can see 2 rubber grommets that are covering up 2 of the bolts.

Behind the grommets is a tube and then the driveshaft from the diff.

To remove the driveshaft, remove the 3 M8 bolts from around the flange...



And withdraw the driveshaft, flange and driveshaft bearing housing as one.



Next is the tube. This is held in place by a circlip.



The tube has an O-ring which holds the tube tight.



Once this has been removed, you can push the grommets into the area you have just removed the tube from and remove them with a magnet.





Once you have removed the M6 bolts and sealing washers, the oil pump can be pulled out.





Once out you can get to the clutch packs, clutch discs, bearings and seals.



I pulled the main cluster out to inspect and held it in a vice with soft jaws.



One last shot from inside and that's it for the moment.



I did spent around 1/2 hour slowly going through the clutch packs, bearings, seals etc inspecting but due to lack of space and a lack of clean hands I couldn't take many photos.

The centre clutch pack, clutch pack A is showing signs of very burnt and worn out clutch discs. Some of the discs are worn down to the metal and will need replacing. I have temporarily put the box back together to keep everything clean, out of the way (busy workshop this!) etc.

I'll let you know more as I go on.

MG

[bam_bam]

I'm loving it. If not for the box tear down but for the following:
Flange
Shaft
O-ring which holds the tube tight

BTW mine had the same crack in the filter, it can apparently affect ATF pick up but I'd like to hear what you think.

[chunky79]

You can get cavitation with that broken filter housing. Fantastic write up so far, lucky you have the time and facilities to do the work (and knowledge)! Keep it coming (that was for bam)
The ratchet strap look a little too close to the wiring bulkhead plug (socket), might be worth dropping it a little.

[mavada]

...can you please take some pics from the right driveshaft, flange and driveshaft bearing housing, differential so i can see what happens when i pull mine out...
Mine seems to have some play in that area.

[Shoppinit]

The ATF pick up pipe on the strainer looks too long. Could be just an impression. There's a similar part that's often put on by mistake on the RS6 where the pick-up pipe is too long preventing proper aspiration. Could that have caused the broken strainer?

Yuo got any photos of removing the drive shaft on the other side? Mav would be interested in seeing that I think.

/edit: he beat me to it.

[RS2]

Speaking to Mark at CT (Chester Transmissions) this morning, he informed me that once running, the oil level in the bottom of the sump is less than 10mm deep !!

So... all of these problems have been caused by a broken filter. Mark expects that the filter will have been broken when it was fitted and has then cracked more and more as it has heat cycled.

I'll be replacing the clutch discs in Clutch pack A along with the seals, bearings etc.

I will pull it apart again to check the next drum and clutch discs as the box has effectively been starved of oil.

Good point re - strap. I'll take the pressure off the electric plug.

Re right hand flange and seal etc, I haven't removed it but on the previous rebuild I did, the centre bolt is all that holds the shaft in. Then you can get to the seal etc. The shaft runs straight into the diff so if there is play there, it's either internal in the diff or the diff bearings have play.

CT will be sending out a new filter along with the other parts so I'll take photos once the parts have arrived.

Hopefully this looks like an easy fix to an otherwise healthy gearbox.

MG