Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
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Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
The alternator fitted (which failed and was subsequently replaced with a fully functioning one) was a Lucas part number 401449231
Same product as seen on this link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OE-Quality-Al ... 1047124601
I don't know where they sourced it from but the cost I paid for the part was about £270 off the top of my head.
Hope that helps
Same product as seen on this link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OE-Quality-Al ... 1047124601
I don't know where they sourced it from but the cost I paid for the part was about £270 off the top of my head.
Hope that helps
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
I guess everything mechanical can fail at some stage, new or otherwise. Nice to hear that you now have it all sorted out now.
FWIW, I believe the OE ones ( as opposed to 'OE Quality' ) are about £400 with the vat. Impossible to say with certainty if this is simply an Audi part premium, or if there is a tangible improvement in terms of quality ..
FWIW, I believe the OE ones ( as opposed to 'OE Quality' ) are about £400 with the vat. Impossible to say with certainty if this is simply an Audi part premium, or if there is a tangible improvement in terms of quality ..
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Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Thanks mate. Like most on here, I suspect, I am not happy if the 6 ain't happy so I am pleased it is squared now. The Lucas part claims OE quality but I suppose time will tell...
Discs and pads next. Promises to be cheap....
Discs and pads next. Promises to be cheap....

Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
I can relate to that, yes !Dennis_Lish wrote:Thanks mate. Like most on here, I suspect, I am not happy if the 6 ain't happy
Give your local TPS a call re discs/pads, might be worthwhile. Alternatively, I think some on here have used ECP and/or Zimmermann discs with success. I have not personally as got fed up with trying to assess if items were available/part numbers/quality etc etc. Just bought OEM in the end
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Stoke Audi are good for parts.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Thanks, I will bear that in mind as well as TPS. Can't hurt to shop around a bit.Shoppinit wrote:Stoke Audi are good for parts.

Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Lucas used to be a respected brand but in 2008 Eurocarparts bought them and shut it down. I suspect the parts are now made in China but bare the Lucas name. Another reason I don't like Eurocarparts as a few friends lost there jobs due to this.Dennis_Lish wrote:The alternator fitted (which failed and was subsequently replaced with a fully functioning one) was a Lucas part number 401449231
Same product as seen on this link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OE-Quality-Al ... 1047124601
I don't know where they sourced it from but the cost I paid for the part was about £270 off the top of my head.
Hope that helps
Avus Avant, RNS-E mk2 with sds and Bluetooth, Milltek, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Forge, ITG, A.C.E, Wagner, FBMFSW, MTM.
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Really interesting thread this.
I have just spotted almost exactly the same issue last night.
Car on 73k, original battery and alternator.
Battery light was flickering while driving sedately. Decided to give it a quick blast (as it had been sitting for about a week) in an attempt to see if I needed to put some life back in the Battery (had a/c on max and stereo on loud at the time). Light continued to flicker. Voltage was a steady 14v according to dash.
Everything else seems to be operating normally.
Got home. Stopped car. Started again and battery light didn't illuminate.
Will check the fuse mentioned earlier in the thread first, then see if I can find somebody to check the charge coming out of the alternator. Suspect alternator is starting to complain and will need to be replaced. At least it doesn't sound hugely expensive to fix.
I have just spotted almost exactly the same issue last night.
Car on 73k, original battery and alternator.
Battery light was flickering while driving sedately. Decided to give it a quick blast (as it had been sitting for about a week) in an attempt to see if I needed to put some life back in the Battery (had a/c on max and stereo on loud at the time). Light continued to flicker. Voltage was a steady 14v according to dash.
Everything else seems to be operating normally.
Got home. Stopped car. Started again and battery light didn't illuminate.
Will check the fuse mentioned earlier in the thread first, then see if I can find somebody to check the charge coming out of the alternator. Suspect alternator is starting to complain and will need to be replaced. At least it doesn't sound hugely expensive to fix.
*SOLD* - currently looking for a replacement
03 Missano Red Avant
Silver Leather, H&Rs, Dension iPod Connection kit
85k miles
03 Missano Red Avant
Silver Leather, H&Rs, Dension iPod Connection kit
85k miles
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Around £1k for a garage to do but can be done DIY without much problems.
***OLD*** Daytona C5 RS6 Avant - MRC'd - 500HP & 820NM (PistonHeads Link).
***NEW*** Daytona C6 RS6 Avant - MRC'd - 955HP & 1200NM (PistonHeads Link)
***NEW*** Daytona C6 RS6 Avant - MRC'd - 955HP & 1200NM (PistonHeads Link)
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Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
ChrisRS6,
Sorry for the delay-hope I am not too late.
Your situation sounds very similar to mine. Upon initial inspection, the factory alternator was a bit noisy, but producing the correct charge. It was deemed that the bearings were on the way out so I I agreed to swap it out. The new part then failed and was replaced and I also put in a new battery to be sure.
The lesson here, as was pointed out initially by the guys on here, is that changing the battery, if it is old, is probably a decent start point and much cheaper than a new alternator. My OEM alternator may have lasted another few grand had I just changed the battery first. My alternator replacement was just over £600 after a small discount and the battery was £150 for a Bosch.
That being said, it gives a degree of peace of mind knowing that both alternator and battery should be issue free for some time to come (I have probably jinxed it now...)
Best of luck with it-hopefully it is the cheaper of the two scenarios!
Sorry for the delay-hope I am not too late.
Your situation sounds very similar to mine. Upon initial inspection, the factory alternator was a bit noisy, but producing the correct charge. It was deemed that the bearings were on the way out so I I agreed to swap it out. The new part then failed and was replaced and I also put in a new battery to be sure.
The lesson here, as was pointed out initially by the guys on here, is that changing the battery, if it is old, is probably a decent start point and much cheaper than a new alternator. My OEM alternator may have lasted another few grand had I just changed the battery first. My alternator replacement was just over £600 after a small discount and the battery was £150 for a Bosch.
That being said, it gives a degree of peace of mind knowing that both alternator and battery should be issue free for some time to come (I have probably jinxed it now...)
Best of luck with it-hopefully it is the cheaper of the two scenarios!
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Having the same issues now, started yesterday with the red batt light coming on.
Now I have ABS/Traction control lights on and a yellow batt warning light on with the voltage sat at 10! If anyone can advise on exactly which batt to buy i can go and get that now, thats a start I guess, Bam mate, any way you can detail how/where to find the fuse you mentioned in your post? In layman's terms of course, I R A BIT FicK when it comes to cars.
Im hoping that will sort the issue if not then its an new alternator
Ill give Amar a shout and see if its been done before at all.
Fault codes thrown pertaining to this issue ( *he says hoping Shop's in this am):
01 Engine
16946-System Voltage
p0562-002 Too low-intermittent.
Showing codes on ABS too and Radio module, all due to low voltage.
Thanks in advance for any light shedding and help.
Now I have ABS/Traction control lights on and a yellow batt warning light on with the voltage sat at 10! If anyone can advise on exactly which batt to buy i can go and get that now, thats a start I guess, Bam mate, any way you can detail how/where to find the fuse you mentioned in your post? In layman's terms of course, I R A BIT FicK when it comes to cars.
Im hoping that will sort the issue if not then its an new alternator

Fault codes thrown pertaining to this issue ( *he says hoping Shop's in this am):
01 Engine
16946-System Voltage
p0562-002 Too low-intermittent.
Showing codes on ABS too and Radio module, all due to low voltage.
Thanks in advance for any light shedding and help.
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
If the gauge is only showing 10V when the engine is running, then it sound like the alternator is toast. Might just be the voltage regulator part of the alternator.
The fuse is under the plastic cover in front of the windscreen. You should be able to see if easily enough if you remove that.
I wouldn't bother getting a battery just yet unless you know yours is old and infirm.
The fuse is under the plastic cover in front of the windscreen. You should be able to see if easily enough if you remove that.
I wouldn't bother getting a battery just yet unless you know yours is old and infirm.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Idiots guide to batteries/Alternators
Thanks Shop. Booked in for a new Alt tomo, just need a batt charger and a Jump pack for the 20 mile drive!
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