Do they handle (proper) cold?
Weird. Maybe the battery is weak. It can seem to charge very quickly then discharge almost immediately when it is sulphated up. See what happens when you get the new battery in.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
The battery is definitely weak, it would probably be passable still in Europe just it gets very sluggish at below -15C.
The strange thing is that the alternator appears to work fine, but that somehow it seems "out of the loop" when doing an ice cold start. Shutting the car down when it's warmed up a bit and restarting immediately solves the problem, as if there is a relay stuck or something else that needs to un-freeze before the alternator's output is connected to everything else. But a restart is always necessary.
It also takes a while to get into this condition, yesterday I let it stand for 7 hours in -17 and it did not have the issue when starting. But after a whole night it's there every time.
The strange thing is that the alternator appears to work fine, but that somehow it seems "out of the loop" when doing an ice cold start. Shutting the car down when it's warmed up a bit and restarting immediately solves the problem, as if there is a relay stuck or something else that needs to un-freeze before the alternator's output is connected to everything else. But a restart is always necessary.
It also takes a while to get into this condition, yesterday I let it stand for 7 hours in -17 and it did not have the issue when starting. But after a whole night it's there every time.
Last edited by JCviggen on Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Maybe when the battery is so cold, the internal resistance is very high and the alternator doesn't try to charge it to prevent it exploding; When it warms it can charge it again. I'm speculating wildly, but I like it as a possible explanation.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
It's a theory 
Let's see what they come up with.
Let's see what they come up with.B7 RS4 saloon Misano red, comfy seats, JHM tune & JHM full exhaust with cats and resonators - gone.
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
Car dealers.... 
They called and as far as they can see the alternator is fine, they want to charge the batt properly and send us on our way to see what it does (just replace the damn thing it's on its last legs)
There's "a lot of small errors" recorded in the ECU (well, 2 idle lean codes, 2 rich, 1 EVAP fault, 1 EGT implausible signal, 1 voltage low and 2 fuel pump/pressure codes because of the immobilizer once kicking in) so they don't know where to start and their suggestion was lets's reset them all and when they start coming back come to us immediately. Yeah it's only a 1-hour trip.
I flat out TOLD them where to start, what code was probably which problem and which codes they could ignore with a nice print out to go with it. They also mentioned an air leak was "nothing to really worry about".
That may hold some water if it's an IC that is losing a tiny bit of air (not overspinning turbos) but I don't want to drive around with a CEL all the time because the MAF seals are leaking.
Also, they need to order new power steering hoses from germany and that's going to take a mere 2 weeks.
Since this was supposedly the most knowledgeable of the lot I must conclude that there is simply no-one in this city who has a clue about an RS6.
They called and as far as they can see the alternator is fine, they want to charge the batt properly and send us on our way to see what it does (just replace the damn thing it's on its last legs)
There's "a lot of small errors" recorded in the ECU (well, 2 idle lean codes, 2 rich, 1 EVAP fault, 1 EGT implausible signal, 1 voltage low and 2 fuel pump/pressure codes because of the immobilizer once kicking in) so they don't know where to start and their suggestion was lets's reset them all and when they start coming back come to us immediately. Yeah it's only a 1-hour trip.
I flat out TOLD them where to start, what code was probably which problem and which codes they could ignore with a nice print out to go with it. They also mentioned an air leak was "nothing to really worry about".
That may hold some water if it's an IC that is losing a tiny bit of air (not overspinning turbos) but I don't want to drive around with a CEL all the time because the MAF seals are leaking.
Also, they need to order new power steering hoses from germany and that's going to take a mere 2 weeks.
Since this was supposedly the most knowledgeable of the lot I must conclude that there is simply no-one in this city who has a clue about an RS6.
Reassuring to see that Audi dealers are consistently useless regardless of country.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Always difficult to be certain with these cars but I've had two Audi alternators fail on me (a C5 A6 and a B5 S4) with symptoms exactly like this - both when the temperature dropped sharply. My guess is that the extra load of very cold start + heated seats + window seater + lights is just too much for a weak alternator, like Shoppinit said.
I was told in relation to the A6 that if the car will start normally on a fully charged battery but the voltmeter then indicates <13v, alternator failure is almost a dead cert. I suspect the intermittent 'charging OK' > 'not charging at all' thing is indicative of the brushes within the regulator being on their last legs: a few hundred miles and I expect this will settle to 'not charging at all' and you'll know where the problem is!
The drill is generally battery light > ABS/ESP > transmission limp mode (at which point it really starts getting hairy) > dash lights up like a christmas tree > stranded. If you're getting a new battery anyway then you could keep it in the car with a couple of jump leads until you've got the alternator sorted as a 'get you home' - but driving on a new battery with a dead alternator won't do the battery any good so don't fit it up until the alternator is sorted.
I was told in relation to the A6 that if the car will start normally on a fully charged battery but the voltmeter then indicates <13v, alternator failure is almost a dead cert. I suspect the intermittent 'charging OK' > 'not charging at all' thing is indicative of the brushes within the regulator being on their last legs: a few hundred miles and I expect this will settle to 'not charging at all' and you'll know where the problem is!
The drill is generally battery light > ABS/ESP > transmission limp mode (at which point it really starts getting hairy) > dash lights up like a christmas tree > stranded. If you're getting a new battery anyway then you could keep it in the car with a couple of jump leads until you've got the alternator sorted as a 'get you home' - but driving on a new battery with a dead alternator won't do the battery any good so don't fit it up until the alternator is sorted.
RS6 Avant (C5), Daytona grey
Gone but not forgotten: S4 Avant (B5)
Gone but not forgotten: S4 Avant (B5)
That's why I wanted them to fit a new batt, leave it overnight to freeze and then start and see what it does. But nooooo...
(the symptoms are the same with all power consuming equipment off as well, anything but the first very cold start is OK. And very cold is sub -15, it was fine with -10)
And yes I've run through that drill..given the state of the batt it took only a minute to get from ABS/ESP lights to stalling (made it into our parking lot with hardly a second to spare lol)
(the symptoms are the same with all power consuming equipment off as well, anything but the first very cold start is OK. And very cold is sub -15, it was fine with -10)
And yes I've run through that drill..given the state of the batt it took only a minute to get from ABS/ESP lights to stalling (made it into our parking lot with hardly a second to spare lol)
B7 RS4 saloon Misano red, comfy seats, JHM tune & JHM full exhaust with cats and resonators - gone.
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
Can you get car batteries more cold resistant than oem ones?
Daytona Grey (C5) RS6 saloon, but just a little better...
**** SOLD!!!
****
KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
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100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
**** SOLD!!!
****KW V3 suspension
390mm C6 Brakes
Hotchkis ARBs
Viper Tuning (537bhp 604lbft)
Unit 20 TCU remap
Milltek non-res exhaust and downpipes
100 cell sport cats
Aero wipers
Winter wheels
Wagner intercoolers
LED interior lights
Tesla Model S 85D
All the options with the exception of stupid air suspension
Tesla Model X 60D
Silly doors and all!
Got the car back yesterday on the way back from the airport.
They've replaced the N80 valve and checked the intake system for leaks, couldn't find any. After they put it back together it is definitely better in terms of idle smoothness however. Maybe the MAFs are sealed properly now. It's not completely buttery smooth but the rpms are much more steady now. Have to wait another week for the PS hoses to show up. 350£ for those and another 100 for fitment.
They haven't replaced the battery and were insistent I should try it like this first. OK. Everything was normal this morning but it was only -4 out.
Lets see how it does when it gets colder again in a few days. Car does feel better somehow lets see if any rich or lean codes come back.
They've replaced the N80 valve and checked the intake system for leaks, couldn't find any. After they put it back together it is definitely better in terms of idle smoothness however. Maybe the MAFs are sealed properly now. It's not completely buttery smooth but the rpms are much more steady now. Have to wait another week for the PS hoses to show up. 350£ for those and another 100 for fitment.
They haven't replaced the battery and were insistent I should try it like this first. OK. Everything was normal this morning but it was only -4 out.
Lets see how it does when it gets colder again in a few days. Car does feel better somehow lets see if any rich or lean codes come back.
B7 RS4 saloon Misano red, comfy seats, JHM tune & JHM full exhaust with cats and resonators - gone.
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
Today for the first time in weeks the alternator refused duty again, on a "warm" start even. Though the front of the car was parked on top/in a mountain of snow. Immediately turned off the car, restarted and it worked again. Though the voltage needle had a short wobble right after starting when I turned on some electrics. After that it stayed at 14V for the rest of the trip, and on the way home.
Normally I'd run off to the first garage or dealer I could find for a new alternator, but I find myself in the unfortunate position that a) dealers don't have the right alternator in stock wait 2 weeks b) its more than twice the price it should be and c) For visa purposes I have to be out of the country for some days and we had planned to actually drive the car to Europe.
Because every wealthy Russian seems to go on holidays right after new year plane tickets are impossible to find or cost an arm, leg and both testicles. So I decided to try and kill 2 birds with 1 stone and make the adventurious road trip to Belgium where I've found someone who I can trust to sort the car out. Of course I first have to get there. Leg 1 would be 600 miles Moscow to Vilnius, LT via LV. Leg 2 a shorter trip to Warsaw. Leg 3 a very long one Warsaw to Belgium via Germany. Total is in the 1500 miles.
I was thinking my chances of making it were around 50% but after today's episode I'm thinking it may be less Still haven't been able to come up with an alternative though. I do suspect the voltage regulator may be to blame, but I can't get that replaced either so only academic.
Normally I'd run off to the first garage or dealer I could find for a new alternator, but I find myself in the unfortunate position that a) dealers don't have the right alternator in stock wait 2 weeks b) its more than twice the price it should be and c) For visa purposes I have to be out of the country for some days and we had planned to actually drive the car to Europe.
Because every wealthy Russian seems to go on holidays right after new year plane tickets are impossible to find or cost an arm, leg and both testicles. So I decided to try and kill 2 birds with 1 stone and make the adventurious road trip to Belgium where I've found someone who I can trust to sort the car out. Of course I first have to get there. Leg 1 would be 600 miles Moscow to Vilnius, LT via LV. Leg 2 a shorter trip to Warsaw. Leg 3 a very long one Warsaw to Belgium via Germany. Total is in the 1500 miles.
I was thinking my chances of making it were around 50% but after today's episode I'm thinking it may be less
Still haven't been able to come up with an alternative though. I do suspect the voltage regulator may be to blame, but I can't get that replaced either so only academic.Re: Do they handle (proper) cold?
Hey, I'm freezing my *** off again, let's bump a topic from 3 years ago shall we? I'm on my 4th winter so I think I have an answer to the question in the title.
The answer goes: "sort of"
It will start up to just about -30C. It doesn't sound altogether happy but it does start, if the battery is in good nick. The long battery cable all the way to the boot does not help things.
Here's what does not work well in winter:
- Windshield washers. The ones for the headlights continue working but the ones for the window quick pretty quickly when it gets cold
- Windshield wipers. Brilliant isn't it. The OEM aero wipers with aero arms miss about 50% of the window when it drops below -10. Including the part of the window I like to see the road through.
- PS pump. Technically it does work, but from -20 onwards it sounds like it's about to expire at any moment. Been doing that for 4 winters now, too. Not for lack of trying to have it sorted.
- Valve stem seals. The colder it gets the more blue smoke on a cold start. Probably more pronounced on my car sans precats. At -25 it's not pretty. Been doing that for years, too. No noticeable oil consumption however.
- Some part of the fuel delivery system near the engine isn't petrol tight when it gets very cold. Happens on and off but gets triggered by driving at normal speeds for a while which cools everything down. If I'm in a traffic jam it's all right. Been trying to find what leaks for 3 years now. It smells alarming but so far it hasn't set fire to anything. I have concluded the volume of the leak is tiny compared to the smell. It's definitely coming from the engine compartment and setting ventilation to recirc at least keeps the smell out when it happens.
It does break traction when I get on it in 2nd gear or even 3rd in this weather. But it's not the most pleasant thing to live with. I could kill for some alcantara seats too. Shiny leather at -20 is no fun to put your bottom on.
Effing cold winter car score: 4/10.
The answer goes: "sort of"
It will start up to just about -30C. It doesn't sound altogether happy but it does start, if the battery is in good nick. The long battery cable all the way to the boot does not help things.
Here's what does not work well in winter:
- Windshield washers. The ones for the headlights continue working but the ones for the window quick pretty quickly when it gets cold
- Windshield wipers. Brilliant isn't it. The OEM aero wipers with aero arms miss about 50% of the window when it drops below -10. Including the part of the window I like to see the road through.
- PS pump. Technically it does work, but from -20 onwards it sounds like it's about to expire at any moment. Been doing that for 4 winters now, too. Not for lack of trying to have it sorted.
- Valve stem seals. The colder it gets the more blue smoke on a cold start. Probably more pronounced on my car sans precats. At -25 it's not pretty. Been doing that for years, too. No noticeable oil consumption however.
- Some part of the fuel delivery system near the engine isn't petrol tight when it gets very cold. Happens on and off but gets triggered by driving at normal speeds for a while which cools everything down. If I'm in a traffic jam it's all right. Been trying to find what leaks for 3 years now. It smells alarming but so far it hasn't set fire to anything. I have concluded the volume of the leak is tiny compared to the smell. It's definitely coming from the engine compartment and setting ventilation to recirc at least keeps the smell out when it happens.
It does break traction when I get on it in 2nd gear or even 3rd in this weather. But it's not the most pleasant thing to live with. I could kill for some alcantara seats too. Shiny leather at -20 is no fun to put your bottom on.
Effing cold winter car score: 4/10.
B7 RS4 saloon Misano red, comfy seats, JHM tune & JHM full exhaust with cats and resonators - gone.
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
C5 RS6 Avant Daytona/Cognac - gone.
981 Cayman GTS Gray/Orange.
My youtube
Re: Do they handle (proper) cold?
Surprised you do you not have issues with sticky door locks / releases?
B5 B6 B7 B9
Re: Do they handle (proper) cold?
you might consider installing an aftermarket heater/standkachel...
If you can't go to the track, bring the track to you.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
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MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Re: Do they handle (proper) cold?
Hi,
I live in Norway spend most of my weekends skiing in the mountains. Have seen -25 C without any issues. Car startside fine and experience no issues with engine or gearbox.
The most cost efficent pre-heat solution is the Defa warm up systems. The it is a modular system where you can chose to only have a standard electric oil or water heater. You can ad on the system with cocpit heater, battery charger and remote control with timer. System runs 230VAC power supply.
You find more detailed information at this Site.
http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/warmup/
I live in Norway spend most of my weekends skiing in the mountains. Have seen -25 C without any issues. Car startside fine and experience no issues with engine or gearbox.
The most cost efficent pre-heat solution is the Defa warm up systems. The it is a modular system where you can chose to only have a standard electric oil or water heater. You can ad on the system with cocpit heater, battery charger and remote control with timer. System runs 230VAC power supply.
You find more detailed information at this Site.
http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/warmup/
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