Its the first major bit of work I've done on the Audi but I'm not stranger to cambelt changes just not on this car.
Anyway enough of the chit chat. Here's some more detail. I haven't included a step by step guide of how you do it because that it available in ETKA. The interpretation from ETKA is a little hard to decipher sometimes so I spent lots of time double checking things and inevitably found a few things that didn't seem to be mentioned before.
Day 1: Lots of you would have seen this photo before. Bumper, lights, airbox & pipes all removed. Coolant draining from radiator. Lock carrier bolts screwed in (highlighted in red rings).
Not much of space in there. Not exactly loads when its moved out either.
Perfect fit to stop things drop down to the turbos (!). VO5 'Messy Look' Wax tubs. I believe chunky also uses it
Red ring shows the damage to the MAF seals. Bloody things.
A bit more space now. Air inlet removed. I'd also removed the intercoolers by this point.
And this is what we have to work with. Should be enough unless you have fists like Bluto.
And thats TDC. As per guide the marker on the crank pulley aligns with a plastic bit, but note the cams will either be aligned or 180 degrees out. Large holes on cam keys need to be on the inside otherwise the locking tool doesn't fit anyway. When in this position Cylinder 5 (first in from the right, number is also on the coilpack wire) is at TDC. For re-assurance I also found the exact TDC with a dial gauge and massive protractor method. The audi tools/pointer are damn near too. And the locking tool only has a teenie tiny bit of slop.
Crank locker also fits in down on the passenger side of the block. Quite hard to find at first and a few pipes need to be removed to see it. You can feel the crank if you stick your finger through. Screw in lock all the way.
And here is a larger shot so you can see a bit better.
All the moving bits
A - Left camwheel (for cylinders 1-4)
B - Fixed Roller
C - Waterpump
D - Fixed roller
E - Right camwheel (for cylinder 5-8)
F - Adjuster
G - Crank nose bolt/pulley
H - Movable tensioner
I - Aux belt tensioner
J - Alternator pulley
K - Aux belt fixed pulley
L - Cambelt. Thermostat is behind here.
Behind I & K is the tensioner damper for H.
Tensioner damper and movable pulley. B has a piston in the middle which pushes arm up down and tightens of loosens when needed. These are housed behind a few other things, namely the aux belt (or accessory belt as some people call it). There is also a fairly huge bit which wasn't mentioned when I looked in ETKA and its my new favourite bit of the car. Its the torque damper. Its basically a mount the stops the engine rocking sideways under the immense torques! (muscle car style)
Most of the bits removed. Pretty dirty down there so I gave it all a good clean out. Area circled is where the thermostat is behind.
A view the other way. For some reason when I removed the camwheel the cam actually rotated. The flat section is supposed to be vertical. At this point I nearly died. I reattached the camwheel and turned it back but it keep springing back. Its seems as thoughits just a natural place for the cams to turn a little. Panic over.
Thermostat housing now removed.
All the new parts* I will try to put up part numbers to help everyone out.
A - Coolant. Ready mixed 1:1. I bought 6 litres of the stuff in total
B - Waterpump and gasket
C - Movable roller
D - Damper for C
E - Thermostat and gasket
F - 2x fixed rollers
G - Tensioner
H - Aux belt fixed roller (* item pictured is actually the wrong one - from an N/A 4.2 v8 and not the RS6). I ordered the correct one and picked it up later.
I - Aux belt (God its long!)
J - Cambelt
K - Cambelt change sticker
I didn't change the aux belt tensioner as mine has been replaced in the last years anyway.
All fitted and checking the timing. 2 rotations and check that the locking tools still fit in. Bar across top connects both cam wheels.
And check again just to make sure....
And do it again........
Day 2, 3 and 4 were spent getting the new parts from Audi and sealing my intercoolers. Both coolers were leaking in the end but I think I did a good job with the JB weld. Both seal now and hold 22 psi for 10 minutes each. Lets just see how long they last. When I did the first test drive there is definately more poke, and I'm now getting TC light flashing on in 2nd and 3rd in the dry
Aux belt back on
Then its just a case of bolting everything else back on. I had a bit of a wait to check that everything worked out as one of my MAF seals was damaged and had to wait for a replacement.
MAF seal fitting was fun. Ofcourse Audi use a special tool don't they, and did I have one? No. So I had to improvise. I don't have any bearing fitting tools (or large lumps of ally block lying around) but I did find a CV joint off a Peugeot 206 that fitted perfectly.
It probably would have been cheaper to just buy the proper tool eh.
And thats it. Its always a scarey moment when you turn it over for the first time, expecting a loud bang and hot metal shards being strewn across the driveway.
Now then. One last thing.........where should I put the sticker for the cambelt change?
