Replacing lower suspension bushes
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- 3rd Gear
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Replacing lower suspension bushes
Noticed some play in the OS front lower bush.
How easy is it to replace....do you need a press? Also where's the best place for parts other then the Stealers?
Cheers
How easy is it to replace....do you need a press? Also where's the best place for parts other then the Stealers?
Cheers
Re: Replacing lower suspension bushes
I changed mine recently (complete arms), and tbh it was a pain in the arse working on axle stands as you have to lift the car off of the sub frame to get one of the bolts out on either side, but a worthwhile job as it really sharpens up the handling..kaisersolsay wrote:Noticed some play in the OS front lower bush.
How easy is it to replace....do you need a press? Also where's the best place for parts other then the Stealers?
Cheers
HTH Pete.
RE: Replacing lower suspension bushes
Dont you have to burn them out on the 6?
Now Sold!
'03 Daytona Grey RS6 Avant.
Bilstein PSS9's - bloody amazing.
275 Vreds.
MRC custom map with TCU.
Miltek Resonated.
Hi Flow filters.
Piano inserts with natural leather.
19" 'Plus' (Grey) rims.
Pioneer Avic-D3 (to replace RNS-D) inc DVD, Nav, Ipod Movies, Bluetooth and much more.
'03 Daytona Grey RS6 Avant.
Bilstein PSS9's - bloody amazing.
275 Vreds.
MRC custom map with TCU.
Miltek Resonated.
Hi Flow filters.
Piano inserts with natural leather.
19" 'Plus' (Grey) rims.
Pioneer Avic-D3 (to replace RNS-D) inc DVD, Nav, Ipod Movies, Bluetooth and much more.
RE: Replacing lower suspension bushes
Did mine when I fitted the PSS9'S. Were quite cheap if I recall correctly
Edit. Whole arm that was
Edit. Whole arm that was
Steve
---------------------------------------
RS6 gone, R32 gone, M3 gone, Porsche Cayenne Turbo gone, Boring A6 saloon gone, Boring A6 Avant going in 5 weeks
. Maybe RS5 or S5 Hatchback to come...
---------------------------------------
RS6 gone, R32 gone, M3 gone, Porsche Cayenne Turbo gone, Boring A6 saloon gone, Boring A6 Avant going in 5 weeks

RE: Replacing lower suspension bushes
I think you need to press out. If you do the lower then you might as well do them all as the others will be on way out. I think there is a big one and a small one top and bottom...
When I got all mine done they sharpened up the handling and reduced the pedal vibration when the engine is cold and pulling away (apparently a common thing with these cars).
When I got all mine done they sharpened up the handling and reduced the pedal vibration when the engine is cold and pulling away (apparently a common thing with these cars).
RE: Replacing lower suspension bushes
Would you say this was a garage job really??? I wonder if its a problem if I still have DRC fitted??
RE: Replacing lower suspension bushes
Has anyone just replaced the bushes alone??? Seems about £250ish for a set of polyurethane ones for the front
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- 3rd Gear
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- Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 4:32 pm
All sorted now. Was relatively simple to do. I had to drop the rear bolt out of the front subframe to all the lower arm securing bolt to come out and thus lift the arm away from The car. I would say anyone with a mid skill with the tools could do it themselves. What a difference its made to the cars handling and stability on the road...wow. BIG difference. I'm going to do the other side also.
QuiCk summary of tools and procedure below;
Tools required;
Wheel nut spanner
ball joint splitter tool
18mm socket
13mm socket
18mm spanner
Car jack
Axle stand
Rachet strap (will be revealed why later!)
1. Jack up car and place on axel stands. Remove road wheel.
2. Unbolt 18mm bolt located on the top-side of wheel hub and remove arm from the wheel hub. You may need to use the ball joint splitter at this stage.
3. Slacken 18mm bolt with spanner and socket on each side. *Note you will not get the bolt fully out therefore you will need to drop the rear subframe bolt out to gain access.
4. Place jack under rear section of the front subframe to support its weight and remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the subframe mount plate.
5. With the jack STILL in place start to slacken the large 18mm subframe bolt. This bolt is around 110mm in length and you only need to slacken it around 40mm before it pops out. The mounting plate will also come away.
6. Slowly let the jack down which will drop the sub frame and thus allow the much needed space to remove the 18mm lower arm bolt.
7. Pull old lower suspension arm away from the car body.
8. Fit the new one in reverse orders. WHEN you come to slot the hub mounting end of the arm into the wheel hub you will notice that the whole suspension assembly has moved out slightly and will not line up with the hole in the hub. This is where the rachet strap comes into play.
9. Wrap the rachet strap around the brake disc and caliper and then through the back side of the lower suspension assembly. BE CAREFUL NOT TO FOUL THE BRAKE LINES OR ANY OTHER SENSOR WIRING ETC. SLOWLY tighten the rachet strap so that it pulls the lower suspension assembly into line with the hub bolt hole ans then simply push the lower arm through the hub and tighten the 18mm securing bolt by hand.
10. Tighten the 18mm bolt up. Fit road wheel, remove axel stands and let car down onto the ground.
11. SORTED!
QuiCk summary of tools and procedure below;
Tools required;
Wheel nut spanner
ball joint splitter tool
18mm socket
13mm socket
18mm spanner
Car jack
Axle stand
Rachet strap (will be revealed why later!)
1. Jack up car and place on axel stands. Remove road wheel.
2. Unbolt 18mm bolt located on the top-side of wheel hub and remove arm from the wheel hub. You may need to use the ball joint splitter at this stage.
3. Slacken 18mm bolt with spanner and socket on each side. *Note you will not get the bolt fully out therefore you will need to drop the rear subframe bolt out to gain access.
4. Place jack under rear section of the front subframe to support its weight and remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the subframe mount plate.
5. With the jack STILL in place start to slacken the large 18mm subframe bolt. This bolt is around 110mm in length and you only need to slacken it around 40mm before it pops out. The mounting plate will also come away.
6. Slowly let the jack down which will drop the sub frame and thus allow the much needed space to remove the 18mm lower arm bolt.
7. Pull old lower suspension arm away from the car body.
8. Fit the new one in reverse orders. WHEN you come to slot the hub mounting end of the arm into the wheel hub you will notice that the whole suspension assembly has moved out slightly and will not line up with the hole in the hub. This is where the rachet strap comes into play.
9. Wrap the rachet strap around the brake disc and caliper and then through the back side of the lower suspension assembly. BE CAREFUL NOT TO FOUL THE BRAKE LINES OR ANY OTHER SENSOR WIRING ETC. SLOWLY tighten the rachet strap so that it pulls the lower suspension assembly into line with the hub bolt hole ans then simply push the lower arm through the hub and tighten the 18mm securing bolt by hand.
10. Tighten the 18mm bolt up. Fit road wheel, remove axel stands and let car down onto the ground.
11. SORTED!
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- 3rd Gear
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Good job 
What made you realise it needed changing? Prise bar? Or handling?

What made you realise it needed changing? Prise bar? Or handling?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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- 3rd Gear
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