Fitting B7 calpers and disks on B5 RS4

2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 380 bhp
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Särås
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Post by Särås » Sat May 06, 2006 10:13 am

This is a great modification! :)

I now... ;)
/

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CliveH
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Post by CliveH » Sat May 06, 2006 11:56 am

Brooner wrote: i'm a bit of a mechanicl <beep>
You're in good company Brooner!
Clive

S2 ABY coupe, S4 B5 saloon, S4 B6 avant
RS4 B7 phantom black saloon, mint, fully loaded, low mileage - FOR SALE!- http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... ic&t=88981
S8 D2 facelift, RS6 C5 saloon, both gone but not forgotten

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Post by Golich » Sat May 06, 2006 4:46 pm

I've just tried Brooner’s new brakes in anger - what a phenomenal improvement on the stock set up. This is what the car should have had. I knew the new B7 RS4 brakes were good from the test drive Bronner and I had, but neither of us had REALLY tried them in anger because the salesman was in the back. :lol: Feck these brakes good!! :D

I can't wait to fit mine. I've just got to get two flexi hoses and few free hours.

On the subject of flexi hoses. Goodridge don't do hoses for either the old or new RS4 or the RS6. But one of Goodridge’s main distributors is hopeful he could make up a set using Goodridge’s hoses if one of us supply a stock RS6 hose which he can copy the length and end fittings.

Typical price for Goodridge stainless braided hose is in the order of £12-£17 depending on whether zinc or stainless end fittings or colour hoses are requested. This is half the price of the standard rubber RS6 hoses.

Does anyone know where we can get an RS6 braided hose off the shelf before I consider buying one to send to this guy. Or does anyone have an RS6 hose they could send to this company?

By providing him with the original hose, Goodridge/this company will effectively give this a part number and maintain it in their overall catalogue.

On a slightly different subject both Brooner and Clive are suffering from a spongey peddle despite both of them having their systems bleed several times. Having felt Brooner’s peddle I’m convinced there is still air in his system and suggested they take the calliper off and rotate and tap it while bleeding. The only other thing I can think it might be is under sized master cylinder. Can anyone tell me if the RS6/B7 RS4 has a larger master cylinder than the B5 RS4 – anyone with ETKA ?

Do any of you guys with 6 and 8 pot systems suffer from an initially spongey brake peddle firming up towards the end. Also, the peddle typically firms up and travels less upon an immediate second press. This could be indicative of more fluid volume being required to activate the four additional pistons.

rs666
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Post by rs666 » Sat May 06, 2006 4:49 pm

I get the soft start to the peddle on my RS6, bleed and refilled a couple of times with no change.

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Post by Golich » Sat May 06, 2006 5:07 pm

rs666 wrote:I get the soft start to the peddle on my RS6, bleed and refilled a couple of times with no change.
That's interesting. I'm going to try my mates RS6 tomorrow to see if this is a common feature.

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Post by DamoM » Fri Jun 16, 2006 2:02 am

Brooner wrote:Never thought of that to be truthful this the way that jim said to go i don't know if there would be a problem removing the hub?? a asume that this was the easyest way to go but i'm a bit of a mechanicl <beep> so i was totaly in his hands. It hasant made any balance probs that i'm aware of we are talking 12mm out of the hub which is a very small peace of metal. thogh in retrospect the removingthe hub would be a more straght forward option.
what a lovely peice of work. Well done. :D
1995 (M) Noggie RS2. MD357 turbo and remap. tba bhp.
2000 (X) Noggie RS4. Miltek Cat back. No cats. B7 discs/RS6 calipers. ally flywheel, DUH FMIC, ceramic coated tubular manilfolds, large intake pipes, RS6 turbos, 3" downpipea, large injectors etc MRC remap, 592bhp, 535lbft
1990 (Q) 20vURQuattro. Being fitted with RS4 motor & 6 speeder,porsche brakes.

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Re: RE: B7 discs on B5 RS4???

Post by Golich » Mon Jun 19, 2006 1:56 pm

shineydave wrote:couldn't you just undo the centre bolt in the hub and remove it to prevent having to grind the hub and risk throwing it out of balance?
On reflection from my experience of replacing the rear wheel bearing on my S4. The hub is pressed into the inner races of the wheel bearing and requires a significant force to remove it, typically a hydraulic puller. As there are two inner races to the wheel bearing I think if Jim had tried to remove the hub, the outward side of the inner race would probably have stayed stuck to the hub. If Jim didn't then remove the inner race from the hub he wouldn't know if the bearing seal had been reset correctly upon bolting the hub back together.

Therefore, he would have had to remove the inner race from the hub. This typically requires a rip off £100 fine wedged bearing puller. You don't normally need such a puller as you are typically replacing the bearing so the inner race can be removed through the use of heat or simply cutting the inner race with a grinder.

So I'm sure Jim knew all this and that's why he didn't try to remove the hub.

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CliveH
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Post by CliveH » Mon Jun 19, 2006 2:10 pm

Golich wrote:
rs666 wrote:I get the soft start to the peddle on my RS6, bleed and refilled a couple of times with no change.
That's interesting. I'm going to try my mates RS6 tomorrow to see if this is a common feature.
How did you get on Patrick?
Clive

S2 ABY coupe, S4 B5 saloon, S4 B6 avant
RS4 B7 phantom black saloon, mint, fully loaded, low mileage - FOR SALE!- http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... ic&t=88981
S8 D2 facelift, RS6 C5 saloon, both gone but not forgotten

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quattrokid1
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Post by quattrokid1 » Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:21 am

i recon this would look the dogs bits if the calipers were red on a misano RS4!!!!

OH I HOPE I CAN GET THIS DONE SOME DAY
Misano red B5 RS4 710 D/V's SERVICED BY EL GRIZZMO:).... Wife's !!
Tornado red WR quattro :):)
UrS4 saloon auto:) resurected by Unit20
Audi S3 8L Imola yellow

Audi B6 S4 Cabrio SOLD :( :(
Audi 100 2.2E SOLD
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Post by neckarsulm » Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:49 am

Anyone know how much MRC /APS charge for this work ?
[youtube]https://youtu.be/-I1Ok9LTn6o[/youtube]

S4INT
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Post by S4INT » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:00 am

From memory, when I had the B7 calipers & discs fitted by MRC, it was about £1200.
Golf R - with added MRC
Sprint blue B7 RS4 Avant - Sold
Ultimate Silver Nissan GT-R - Sold
Avus MRC 470 B5 RS4 Avant - Sold

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Post by neckarsulm » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:03 am

From memory, when I had the B7 calipers & discs fitted by MRC, it was about £1200.
which sounds cheap considering cost of parts listed above doesn't it?
[youtube]https://youtu.be/-I1Ok9LTn6o[/youtube]

S4INT
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Post by S4INT » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:19 am

neckarsulm wrote:
From memory, when I had the B7 calipers & discs fitted by MRC, it was about £1200.
which sounds cheap considering cost of parts listed above doesn't it?
That's just the front's, but still good value compared to Movit, AP etc.
Golf R - with added MRC
Sprint blue B7 RS4 Avant - Sold
Ultimate Silver Nissan GT-R - Sold
Avus MRC 470 B5 RS4 Avant - Sold

neckarsulm
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Post by neckarsulm » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:41 am

Doesn't it say £565 for front discs and £700 for RS6 front calipers? :?

My standard and nearly new brakes seem crap on the few times I brake hard from high speeds and I don't mean repeatedly, I mean once a month!
I wonder if I have glazed them as car only gets used once a week and that's with wife onboard?
[youtube]https://youtu.be/-I1Ok9LTn6o[/youtube]

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Brooner
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Post by Brooner » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:54 am

Possible galzing the brakes need to be abused no and then to get the optimum grip
2018 B9 RS4 Navarra Blue
2013 B8 RS4 Sepang Blue
2007 B7 RS4 Avant Sprint Blue
2001 B5 RS4 Nogaro Blue
1998 B5 S4 Avant Kingfisher Blue
1993 B4 S2 Avant laser Red

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