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They came on mine when I bought it. They’re utterly useless and I’m putting Bilsteins on when they get round to making some.

edit: ignore me, didn’t spot the bit about new struts.

The door panel is not too bad to remove, the only annoying bit is the screw in the handle that is really deeply recessed and needs a long, thin extension. This video shows the process, the annoying screw is at about 2 minutes: https://youtu.be/-bIrl2seUVQ In terms of the part number you can get the ...

IMHO it is impossible to diagnose a heavily modified car over the internet. Even if you get access to modify the ECU code, what parameters are you going to change if you don’t understand the problem? Surely you need something like VCDS and then log cylinder misfires, knock events, fuel pressure, lam...

As a first step I’d be doing a parasitic draw test as described here: https://youtu.be/lRcj1fQcWwU The problems that you’ll have are keeping the car ‘asleep’ while you carry out the test (which is why he latches all the doors etc) and also that there’s about a million fuses in a C6 chassis car! You ...

The Belt is doable with just the bumper off and the oil and power steering fluid coolers swing out of the way. If you’re replacing the tensioner and pulley then imho you’ve got no chance without moving the radiator carrier forward a few inches.

If we are talking the diverted valves at the bottom of the air boxes (and to be honest, the error could equally refer to the wastegates?) then I think it’ll be a physical problem with one valve or the other. The code refers to a specific side, but both valves actuate off the same solenoid and have a...

Thanks for the help! For anyone who finds this later, the hose from the right hand intercooler had popped off at the bottom of the cast aluminium inlet duct. The car ran remarkably well with hardly any boost! Looking at http://www.ianhenshall.com/C6_RS6_Study_Guide.pdf, ECU 1 monitors the right hand...

Hi all, Coming off a roundabout earlier I noticed the car was down on power, albeit still running smoothly. Looking on VCDS I have the following: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (BUH) Labels:. 07L-910-552-BUH1.clb Part No SW: 4F1 910...

It’s far easier than ediabas or inpa! From memory I don’t think too much coding was involved, you definitely have to remove the control unit from the list of installed modules in the can-gateway: https://youtu.be/yHNUUAK6GNs I have some notes around coding changes but it doesn’t look like I had to d...

Sorry, I read the question as ‘without vag-com etc’…

Using vag-com you can completely code out the DRC and the variable damping, so no MMI menu and no light on the dash.

I have removed the controller entirely from the car and it’s quite happy

I had to use VAG-COM, I think you can turn off the damping selector in the MMI via the ‘hidden menu’ but that would still leave the suspension warning light on the dash.

My car is at 147k km, values are:
Bank 1 intake -4.0
Bank 1 exhaust 0.0
Bank 2 intake -1.0
Bank 2 exhaust -2.0

Are there any specs for acceptable ranges for these values?

Hi Paul,

You’re right, the electronics are for damping adjustment of course. I think because it’s all in the same unit I confuse the DRC and the variable damping.

Currently bouncing between KW V3 and Bilstein B16 as a replacement, although bouncing might not be the right word to use!

I have just bought a ‘58 plate Avant which has had the DRC replaced with some horrible coil overs(that are in dire need of replacement, but that’s another story). Obviously, as a result of the butchery, the DRC light was on. I keep seeing references on here to the KW blanking plugs to fool the DRC i...