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I must say, that it worked in my case (LH drive car) without demounting of the AC compressor, however, as I wrote the two angle mounts with which the oil module is fixed to the motor need to be removed. Otherwise I was not able ne rotate the oil module sufficently which made it hard to remove it and...

After 220k km I thought it might be a good idea to change the fuel filter. Thanks to the forum, I knew that due to the limited space (is there any part in this car, that provides plenty of space :? ) the removal of the fuel pipes from the filter might be challenging. For those of you who intend to t...

It seems that I will need to do the same procedure because of a substantial oil leak of the seal on the right front between the bedplate and the oil sump. When this engine gets old, it develops huge oil leak problems I never thought about in my life before with "normal" cars :cry: I feel brave enoug...

Sorry, I mixed up things. I was thinking of the WHT003438 o-ring for the tube that connects the turbo to the charge air cooler.
Are you really sure that the part number showed in the parts catalogue is not correct ?

The SHW Performance are the OEMs distributed recently by SHW directly at a bit lower price then from Audi. I am happy with them but my car is stock and not used on tracks.

The number is correct, it is the large diameter o-ring between the inlet tube and the turbo. The figure is not correct. Had the same confusion a few years ago.

I had the same issue a few years ago. While there are plenty of stickers for the A/C control panel available, I only found these for the A6/RS6 steering wheel buttons: https://www.ebay.de/itm/115669175579?hash=item1aee6b8d1b:g:ylwAAOSwb-Ng5duK I wanted to have the original look and purchased new bot...

I replaced mine recently. No need to drain gearbox oil. Congrats to the mechanic who was able to remove the long bolts without removing the radiators. I was not able to remove the coolant connection pipe without putting the main radiator and the fans aside. But was quite a straightforward procedure ...

I had the same issue recently. However, it only happened with cold outside temperatures. The door lock problem is a VERY common problem on VAG cars (the web is full of reports) and it is caused because the electrical connectors of the electric motors inside the lock are not soldered to a cable anymo...

Gentlemen, unfortunately after my problem with massive oil in the cats resulting from a defective return valve in the oil pump module 4 years ago, I am more frequently have a problem with throwing an error code of "cat efficiency too low" on both banks. No other error beside the obligatory secondary...

And I thought mine was bad ....... Looks like it has seen very high temperatures.

Dear Jim, many thanks for your help, greatly appreciated ! I guess the part # is N90959701, which is an NBR O-ring with 22mm of inner diameter and a thickness of 3.55mm. In the meantime I found out that the diameter is 22mm, but I did not find any infos about the thinkness. By the way, I had exactly...

Many thanks Jim. I spend hours and did not find any information about this o-ring. And it bothers me somehow to buy the whole tube because of an o-ring. Good luck for your upcoming engine-out job ! I am afraid, I have to do the same due to an increasing amount of oil in my spark plugs wells due to a...

Can anyone help me on this ? At least with the size of the o-ring ?
Any info is appreciated. Many thanks.
Ruedi

The crank shaft sensor (G28) is placed at the very bottom and end of the engine just blow the clutch wheel. It is fixed with a single screw and very easy to access. Just replace it, no calibration needed.