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Mine was doing 275 and not revving over 6k due to swirl flaps in manifold being stuck. MRC did deflap, carbon clean and remap returning car to std power and increasing torque to 460Nm. Very happy with the result, pulls much better in midrange and Sport button throttle map has extra kick. Only slight...

I recently had MRC do deflap, carbon clean and remap. The vacuum actuator on one bank had broken due to flaps/shaft starting to seize up. For me power was returned to std and no more, but the torque was up to 460Nm and that made a great difference.

Great, thanks for feedback James

Needing to remove front brake calipers for refurb to sort out corrosion lifting the plates and change discs. Has anyone tried removing the caliper but undoing the 2 radial allen bolts (10mm) that mount the caliper to the hub mounting bracket. The allen bolts are more accessible than the big 21mm bol...

To make it more of an unplug solution you would need to interupt the wiring at the vacuum solenoid end rather than under the ECU. The vacuum solenoid is in the boot in the well behind rear wheel arch (passenger side). The 2 control wires referenced in aussiedan's article (grey/black and yellow/green...

I managed to free the valves up in situ, and they require a regular squirt of oil to keep them free. Previous owner had disconnected the vac lines, but i found stock exhaust with valves open a bit drony on long journey cruising at motorway speeds. So reconnected and fixed the seized valves which mak...

Very likely they will be seized up. I had same reconnecting vac lines on mine. Required penetrating oil and quite a lot of 'persuasion' to wiggle them back and forth to eventually free them up.

I had leak on mine when i bought it - dumping entire bottle contents in 4 or 5 screen washes. The reservoir and pump are behind liner in passenger wheel arch - just remove liner to access. The pump and valve (directing fluid front and rear for Avant) seats into a seal in the bottom of the reservoir....

Rears are different - floating caliper set up, no retaining pins.

I think the mods are key to this - the car has FASH for the regular work, but the modifications are done by specialist(s). So i doubt doing the servicing at a reputable specialist will harm the service history. At least if i was the buyer that would be my thinking. (if you had a completely std car w...

Interesting. Now its dark, I have been wondering how long HID bulbs last and whether there is benefit from replacement.I have a thick stack of history and no record of the bulbs being changed so likely they are 10yrs old. My dip beam is OK but nothing special and main beam is bit poor (there was oth...

Good to hear your friend pulled the dent out for you.

Very bad behaviour from employer to end your contract, hope you find something else quickly.
Good luck

Yep that cable @jonytek links to looks right. Yes you do need to recode using VAGCOM - the change is small and details and link to Rosstech wiki are halfway down the first page of the thread i linked to. The recoding enables the aux input and makes the AUX appear in the source list under the CD so y...

There are aux input pins on connector on rear of RNSE. Check the thread below - It shows the lead that needs to be made up to 3.5mm audio jack that can be routed through into glovebox. Also recoding needed (via VCDS) to activate the Aux input n the source list on the RNSE. Ross made up a batch of le...

Thank Faisal, Ilya for your feedback. I have about 5mm of material on current oem pads so few miles before they need changing and then very likely i will give the hawk pads a try.